Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
We had risen about 1,200 feet when we stopped to put on the spare warm
clothes which we carried against such a contingency as this. For my
part, I added a light shetland “woolly” and a thin silk shirt to what I
was wearing before under my closely woven cotton coat. As this outer
garment, with knickers to match, was practically windproof, and a silk
shirt too is a further protection against wind, with these two extra
layers I feared no cold we were likely to meet. Morshead, if I remember
right, troubled himself no more at this time than to wrap a woollen
scarf round his neck, and he and I were ready and impatient to get off
before the rest. Norton was sitting a little way below with his rucksack
poised on his lap. In gathering up our rope so as to have it free when
we should move on I must have communicated to the other rope some small
jerk—sufficient, at all events, to upset the balance of Norton’s
rucksack. He was unprepared, made a desperate grab, and missed it.
Slowly the round, soft thing gathered momentum from its rotation, the
first little leaps down from one ledge to another grew to excited and
magnificent bounds, and the precious burden vanished from sight. For a
little interval, while we still imagined its fearful progress until it
should rest for who knows how long on the snow at the head of the
Rongbuk Glacier, no one spoke. “My rucksack gone down the kudh!” Norton
exclaimed with simple regret. I made a mental note that my warm
pyjama-legs which he had borrowed were inside it, so if I were to blame
I had a share in the loss. A number of offers in woollen garments for
the night were soon made to Norton; after which we began to explain what
each had brought for comfort’s sake, and I wondered whether my
companions’ system of selection resembled mine;—as I never can resolve
in cold blood to leave anything behind, when each article presents
itself as just the one I may particularly want, I pack them all into a
rucksack and then pull out this and that more or less at random until
the load is not greater than I can conveniently carry; even so I almost
invariably find that I have more clothing in reserve than I actually
use.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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