Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The alternative is to apply less force; three gentle strokes,
as a rule, will be required for each step. To cut a staircase in this
humble manner was by no means impossible, as was proved again on the
descent, up to 25,000 feet. But the same rules and limitations determine
this labour as every other up here. The work can be done and the worker
will endure it provided sufficient time is allowed. It is haste that
induces exhaustion. On this occasion we were obliged to hurry; our
object was to reach shelter as soon as possible. In a wind like that on
a bare snow-slope a man must take his axe in both hands to meet the
present need; future contingencies will be left to take care of
themselves. The slope was never steep; the substance was not obdurate;
but when at length we lay on the rocks and out of the wind I computed
our staircase to be 300 feet, and at least one of us was very tired.
I cannot say precisely how much time passed on this arduous section of
our ascent. It was now 11.30 a.m. The aneroid was showing 25,000 feet
compared with a reading of 23,000 on the North Col; the rise of 2,000
feet had taken us in all 3½ hours. For some reason Morshead had been
delayed with two or three of the porters, and as the rest of us now sat
waiting for them we began to discuss what should be done about fixing
our camp. It had been our intention to reach 26,000 feet before pitching
the tents. But it was evident that very few places would accommodate
them. We had already seen enough to realise how steeply the rocks of
this mountain dip towards the North, with the consequence that even
where the ground is broken the ledges are likely to prove too steep for
camping. We must pass the night somewhere on this leeward side, and we
had little hopes of finding a place above us. However, at about our
present level, well marked as the point of junction between snow and
rocks, we had previously observed from Camp III some ground which
appeared less uncompromising than the rest. A broken ledge offered a
practicable line towards this same locality.
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