Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Whether the decision we came to at this crisis of our fortunes were
right or wrong, I cannot tell, and I hardly want to know. I have no wish
to excuse our judgment. Who can tell what might have happened had we
decided otherwise? And who can judge? Then why should I be at the pains
to analyse the thoughts which influenced our decision? It is perhaps a
futile inquiry. Nevertheless it is such decisions that determine the
fate of a mountaineering enterprise, and the operative motives or
contending points of view may have an interest of their own. Among us
there was deliberation often enough, but never contention. There never
was a dissentient voice to anything we resolved to do, partly, I
suppose, because we had little choice in the matter, more because we
were that sort of party. We had a single aim in common and regarded it
from common ground. We had no leader within the full meaning of the
word, no one in authority over the rest to command as captain. We all
knew equally what was required to be done from first to last, and when
the occasion arose for doing it one of us did it. Some one, if only to
avoid delay in action, had to arrange the order in which the party or
parties should proceed. I took this responsibility without waiting to be
asked; the rest accepted my initiative, I suppose, because I used to
talk so much about what had been done on the previous Expedition. In
practice it amounted only to this, that I would say to my companions,
“A, will you go first? B, will you go second?” and we roped up in the
order indicated without palaver. Apart from this I never attempted to
inflict my own view on men who were at least as capable as I of judging
what was best. Our proceedings in any crisis of our fortunes were
informally democratic. They were so on the occasion from which I have so
grievously digressed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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