Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
It was all-important besides to make ourselves really comfortable, if we
were to get to sleep, by making experiments in the disposition of limbs,
adjusting the floor if possible and arranging one’s pillow at exactly
the right level—which may be difficult, as the pillow should be high if
one is to breathe easily at a great altitude. I had already found out
exactly how to be comfortable before Norton was ready to share the
accommodation. I remarked that in our double sleeping-bag I found ample
room for myself but not much to spare. Norton’s entrance was a grievous
disturbance. It was doubtful for some time whether he would be able to
enter; considering how long and slim he is, it is astonishing how much
room he requires. We were so tightly pressed together that if either was
to move a corresponding manœuvre was required of the other. I soon
discovered, as the chief item of interest in the place where I lay, a
certain boulder obstinately immovable and excruciatingly sharp which
came up between my shoulder-blades. How under these circumstances we
achieved sleep, and I believe that both of us were sometimes unconscious
in a sort of light, intermittent slumber, I cannot attempt to explain.
Perhaps the fact that one was often breathless from the exhaustion of
discomfort, and was obliged to breathe deeply, helped one to sleep, as
deep breathing often will. Perhaps the necessity of lying still because
it was so difficult to move was good for us in the end. Norton’s case
was worse than mine. One of his ears had been severely frostbitten on
the way up; only one side was available to lie on; and yet the blessed
sleep we sometimes sigh for in easy beds at home visited him too.
The party had suffered more than at first we realized from exposure in
the wind on the way up. The damage to Norton’s ear was not all. I
noticed when my hands got warm in bed that three finger-tips appeared to
be badly bruised; the symptom could only point to one conclusion, and I
soon made out how they had come to be frostbitten. At the time when the
step-cutting began I had been wearing a pair of lined leather gloves,
motor-drivers’ gloves well suited to the occasion, and my hands had been
so warm that I thought it safe to change the glove on my right hand for
a woollen one with which it was easier to grasp the axe. But wool is not
a good protection against wind, and in grasping the axe I must have
partially stopped the circulation in these finger-tips. The injury,
though not serious, was inconvenient. And Morshead had felt the cold far
more than I. It is still uncertain whether he had yet been frostbitten
in toes and fingers, but though he made no complaint about them until
much later I have little doubt they were already touched, if not
severely frozen. At all events, he had been badly chilled on the way up;
he was obliged to lie down when we reached our camp and was evidently
unwell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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