Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
When all is said about our troubles and difficulties, the night, in
spite of everything, was endurable. For distraction to pass the
sleepless intervals engaging thoughts were not far to seek; we had still
our plans for to-morrow; the climax was to come; and, might we not get
so high by such a time? Then, might not the remaining hours be almost,
even quite enough? Besides, we had accomplished something, and though
the moments following achievement are occupied more often in looking
forward than in looking back, we perhaps deliberately encouraged in
ourselves a certain complacency on the present occasion; we were able to
feel some little satisfaction in the mere existence of this camp, the
two small tents perched there on the vast mountain-side of snow-bound
rocks and actually higher, at 25,000 feet, than any climbing party had
been before. “Hang it all!” we cooed, “it’s not so bad.”
The worst of it in dimly conscious moments was still the weather. The
wind had dropped in the evening, as it often does, and nothing was to be
deduced from that; but the hovering clouds had not cleared off and the
night was too warm. I’m not meaning that we complained of the warmth;
but for fine weather we must have a cold night, and it was no colder
here than we had often known it at Camp III.[6] Occasionally stars were
visible during the night; but they shone with a feeble, watery light,
and in the early morning we were listening to the musical patter of
fine, granular snow on the roofs of our tents. A thick mist had come up
all about us, and the stones outside were white with a growing pall of
fresh snow. We were greatly surprised under these conditions when, at
about 6.30 a.m., a perceptible break appeared in the clouds to the East
of us, the “weather quarter,” and this good sign developed so hopefully
that we were soon encouraged to expect a fair day. It was even more
surprising perhaps that some one among us very quickly discovered his
conscience: “I suppose,” he said with a stifled yawn, in a tone that
reminded one of Mr. Saltena rolling over in his costly bed, “it’s about
time we were getting up.” No one dissented—how could one dissent? “I
suppose we ought to be getting up,” we grunted in turn, and slowly we
began to draw ourselves out from the tight warmth of those friendly
bags.
Footnote 6:
The thermometer confirmed our senses and showed a minimum reading for
the night of 7° F.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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