Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
I do not propose to emphasise the various agonies of an early-morning
start or to catalogue all that may be found for fumbling fingers to do;
but one incident is worth recording. A second rucksack escaped us,
slipping from the ledge where it was perched, and went bounding down the
mountain. Its value, even Norton will agree, was greater than that of
the first; it contained our provisions; our breakfast was inside it.
From the moment of its elusion I gave it up for lost. What could stop
its fatal career? What did stop it unless it were a miracle? Somehow or
another it was hung up on a ledge 100 feet below. Morshead volunteered
to go and get it. By slow degrees he dragged up the heavy load, and our
precious stores were recovered intact.
At 8 a.m. we were ready to start and roped up, Norton first, followed by
myself, Morshead and Somervell. This bald statement of fact may suggest
a misleading picture; the reader may imagine the four of us like runners
at the start of a race, greyhounds straining at the leash, with nerves
on the stretch and muscles aching for the moment when they can be
suddenly tight in strong endeavour. It was not like that. I suppose we
had all the same feelings in various degrees, and even our slight
exertions about the camp had shown us something of our physical state.
In spite of the occasional sleep of exhaustion it had been a long,
restless night, scarcely less wearisome than the preceding day; we were
tired no less than when we went to bed, and stiff from lying in cramped
attitudes. I was clear about my own case. Struggling across with an
awkward load from one tent to the other, I had been forced to put the
question, Is it possible for me to go on? Judging from physical
evidence, No; I hadn’t the power to lift my weight repeatedly step after
step. And yet from experience I knew that I should go on for a time at
all events; something would set the machinery going and somehow I should
be able to keep it at work. And when the moment of starting came I felt
some little stir of excitement. If we were not going to experience “the
wild joy of living, the leaping from rock up to rock,” on the other hand
this was not to be a sort of funeral procession. A certain keenness of
anticipation is associated merely with tying on the rope. We tied it on
now partly for convenience, so that no one would be obliged to carry it
on his back, but no less for its moral effect: a roped party is more
closely united; the separate wills of individuals are joined into a
stronger common will. Our roping-up was the last act of preparation. We
had “got ourselves ready,” lacing up our boots so as to be just tight
enough but not too tight, disposing puttees so that they would not slip
down, attending to one small thing or another about our clothing for
warmth and comfort’s sake, possibly even tightening a buckle or doing up
a button simply for neatness, and not forgetting to arrange the few
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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