Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
We must avoid any hasty movement. It would have exhausted us
at once to proceed by rushing up a few steps at a time. We wanted to hit
off just that mean pace which we could keep up without rapidly losing
our strength, to proceed evenly with balanced movements, saving effort,
to keep our form, as oarsmen say, at the end of the race, remembering to
step neatly and transfer the weight from one leg to the other by
swinging the body rhythmically upwards. With the occasional help of the
hands we were able to keep going for spells of twenty or thirty minutes
before halting for three or four or five minutes to gather potential
energy for pushing on again. Our whole power seemed to depend on the
lungs. The air, such as it was, was inhaled through the mouth and
expired again to some sort of tune in the unconscious mind, and the
lungs beat time, as it were, for the feet. An effort of will was
required not so much to induce any movement of the limbs as to set the
lungs to work and keep them working. So long as they were working evenly
and well the limbs would do their duty automatically, it seemed, as
though actuated by a hidden spring. I remember one rather longer halt.
In spite of all my care I found that one of my feet was painfully cold,
and fearing frostbite I took off my boot. Norton rubbed my foot warm. I
had been wearing four thick socks, and now put back on this foot only
three. As it remained warm for the rest of the day I have no doubt that
the boot was previously too tight. Once again I learned the futility of
stopping the circulation by wearing one layer of wool too many.
It was our intention naturally in setting out this day to reach the
summit of Mount Everest. Provided we were not stopped by a
mountaineering difficulty, and that was unlikely, the fate of our
Expedition would depend on the two factors, time and speed. Of course,
we might become too exhausted to go farther before reaching our goal;
but the consideration of speed really covers that case, for provided one
were capable of moving his limbs at all he would presumably be able to
crawl a few steps only so slowly that there would be no point in doing
so. From the outset we were short of time; we should have started two
hours earlier; the weather prevented us. The fresh snow was an
encumbrance, lying everywhere on the ledges from 4 inches to 8 inches
deep; it must have made a difference, though not a large one. In any
case, when we measured our rate of progress it was not satisfactory, at
most 400 feet an hour, not counting halts, and diminishing a little as
we went up. It became clear that if we could go no farther—and we
couldn’t without exhausting ourselves at once—we should still at the
best be struggling upwards after night had fallen again. We were
prepared to leave it to braver men to climb Mount Everest by night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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