Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
By agreeing to this arithmetical computation we tacitly accepted defeat.
And if we were not to reach the summit, what remained for us to do? None
of us, I believe, cared much about any lower objective. We were not
greatly interested then in the exact number of feet by which we should
beat a record. It must be remembered that the mind is not easily
interested under such conditions. The intelligence is gradually numbed
as the supply of oxygen diminishes and the body comes nearer to
exhaustion. Looking back on my own mental processes as we approached
27,000 feet, I can find no traces of insanity, nothing completely
illogical; within a small compass I was able to reason, no doubt very
slowly. But my reasoning was concerned only with one idea; beyond its
range I can recall no thought. The view, for instance—and as a rule I’m
keen enough about the view—did not interest me; I was not “taking
notice.” Wonderful as such an experience would be, I had not even the
desire to look over the North-east ridge; I would have gladly got to the
North-east shoulder as being the sort of place one ought to reach, but I
had no strong desire to get there, and none at all for the wonder of
being there. I dare say the others were more mentally alive than I; but
when it came to deciding what we should do, we had no lively discussion.
It seemed to me that we should get back to Morshead in time to take him
down this same day to Camp IV. There was some sense in this idea, and
many mountaineers may think we were right to make it a first
consideration. But the alternative of sleeping a second night at our
highest camp and returning next day to Camp III was never mentioned. It
may have been that we shrank unconsciously from another night in such
discomfort; whether the thought was avoided in this way, or simply was
not born, our minds were not behaving as we would wish them to behave.
The idea of reaching Camp IV with Morshead before dark, once it had been
accepted, controlled us altogether. It was easy to calculate from our
upward speed, supposing that we could treble this on the descent, at
what time we ought to turn; we agreed to start down at 2.30 p.m., but we
would maintain our rate of progress as best we could until that time
approached.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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