Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
At 4 p.m. we reached our camp, where Morshead was waiting. He was
feeling perfectly well, he reported, and ready to come down with us to
Camp IV. After collecting a few of our possessions which we did not wish
to abandon to the uncertain future, we roped up once more to continue
our descent. So far our pace going down had been highly satisfactory. In
the Alps one usually expects to descend on easy ground twice as fast as
one would go up. But we had divided our time of ascent by 4, and in an
hour and a half had come down 2,000 feet. Under normal conditions at
lower altitudes even this pace would be considered slow; it would not be
an exceptionally fast pace for going up these slopes; and yet the image
that stays in my memory is of a party coming down quite fast. It is
evident that the whole standard of speed is altered. On the ascent, too,
I had the sensation of moving about twice as fast as we actually were. I
imagine that the whole of life was scaled down, as it were, that we were
living both physically and mentally at half, or less than half, the
normal rate. However that may be, we had now to descend only 2,000 feet
to Camp IV, and with more than three hours’ daylight left we supposed we
should have no difficulty in reaching our tents before dark.
Meditating after the event about the whole of our performance this day,
I have often wondered how we should have appeared at various stages to
an unfatigued and competent observer. No doubt he would have noted with
some misgiving the gradually diminishing pace of the party as it crawled
upwards; but he would have been satisfied, I think, that each man had
control of his limbs and a sure balance, and as we were moving along
together over ground where the rope will very easily be caught under the
points of projecting rocks and thereby cause inconvenience and delay
while it is unhitched, this observer, watching the rope, would have
noticed that in fact it almost never was caught up. The party at all
events were “keeping their form” to the extent of managing the rope as
it ought to be managed. For a moment when they were in difficulties
after turning back, he might have thought them rather shaky; but even
here they were able to pull themselves together and proceed with proper
attention and care. Whether he would have noticed any difference when
they started off again I cannot say. A certain impetus of concentration,
a gathering of mental and physical energy, a reserve called up from who
knows where when they turned to face the descent, had perhaps spent its
force; and though the party was a stage nearer to the end of the
journey, it was also a stage nearer to exhaustion and to that state
where carelessness so readily slips in unperceived. It may be supposed
we were a degree less alert, all the more because we foresaw no
difficulty; we had not exercised the imagination to figure difficulties
on the descent, and we now came upon them unexpectedly.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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