Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The beneficent superiority with which we now regarded the whole world
except Mount Everest no doubt helped us to swallow our luncheon—or was
it dinner?—a difficult matter, for our tongues were hanging out after so
much exercise of breathing. We had no chance of finding a trickle here
as one often may in the blessed Alps; and medical opinion, which knew
all about what was good for us, frowned upon the notion of alcoholic
stimulant for a climber in distress at a high altitude. And so, very
naturally, when one of us (Be of good cheer, my friend, I won’t give you
away!) produced from his pocket a flask of Brandy—each of us took a
little nip. I am glad to relate that the result was excellent; it is
logically certain therefore that the Brandy contained no alcohol. The
non-alcoholic Brandy, then, no doubt by reason of what it lacked, had an
important spiritual effect; it gave us just the mental fillip which we
required to pull ourselves together for the descent.
[Illustration:
SUMMIT OF MOUNT EVEREST FROM THE HIGHEST POINT OF THE FIRST CLIMB,
26,983 FEET, 21ST MAY, 1922.
]
Happily inspired by our “medical comfort,” I announced that I would take
the lead. Norton and I changed places on the rope. I optimistically
supposed that I should find an easier way down by a continuous
snow-slope to the West of the ridge. Somervell, also moved by
inspiration, suggested that he should remain behind to make a sketch and
hurry down our tracks to catch us up later. He says that I found it
difficult to understand that he would only require a few minutes, and
that I replied irritably. I can hardly believe that my tone just then
was anything but suave, but I have no doubt I was glad to have him with
us to be our sheet-anchor, and particularly so a little later, for we
were in difficulties almost at once. We found more snow on this new
line, as I had supposed; but it was not to our liking; it lay not on a
continuous slope, but covering a series of slabs and only too ready to
slide off. We were obliged to work back to the ridge itself and follow
it down in our morning’s tracks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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