Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The people of Darjeeling, both the British and the native
inhabitants—whether Tibetans or Hillmen—were all immensely interested in
our Expedition, and Mr. Laden La, the Deputy Superintendent of Police,
was, if anything, the most enthusiastic of them all. Mr. Laden La has
himself rendered excellent service to Government, and has travelled
greatly in Tibet. He is himself a Tibetan, and, I believe, is an
Honorary General in the Tibetan Army. His influence in Darjeeling and
the district is great, and his help to the Expedition was invaluable. He
arranged in Darjeeling, both as head of the Buddhist Association of
Darjeeling, and in conjunction with the Committee of the Hillmen’s
Association, that the whole of the party should be entertained by these
two Associations, and that the chief Lamas and Brahmins of the district
should bless and offer up prayers for the well-being and success of the
party. The entertainment went off most excellently, and it was
altogether a most interesting function. The Nepalese members of the
party were blessed by the Brahmins, but also, in order to confirm this
blessing, further received the blessings of the Lamas. I think there is
every reason for supposing that this small function assisted in bringing
home to all our porters and followers what was expected of them by their
own people, and it was very likely a good deal in consequence of this
that they behaved on the whole so extremely well. For it must be
understood that all these hill people, whether Nepalese or Tibetan, are
very light-hearted, very irresponsible, very high-spirited, and up to
the present time prohibition as a national measure is not exactly a
popular outlook; in fact, none of them on any occasion, unless well
looked after, lost any opportunity of looking on the wine when it is
red—or any other colour.
Our cooks had to be chosen with a good deal of care. Captain Bruce and
myself took the most likely candidates out into the hills and gave them
a good trial before we engaged them. One of them, who was a Nepalese,
had been an old servant of my own for many months; he was the only
Gurkha among them. The other three (for we gave ourselves an ample
outfit of four cooks) were Bhotias (Tibetans). They were the greatest
success, mostly because they are hard-working and ready to do any amount
of work; but they were good cooks too. Captain Noel also engaged an
excellent servant (also a cook), and Major Norton’s private servant
(another Tibetan) was very capable in the same way; so that we were
thoroughly well provided with an ample outfit, and wherever we were we
could count on having our meals properly prepared. This is one of the
important points in Tibetan travel, from the want of which I believe a
certain amount of the illness that was experienced in the previous year
was due.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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