Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
I had been aware for some time that Morshead, though he was going
steadily and well, was more tired than the rest of us. His long halt at
our high camp can have done him little good. He had not recovered. His
strength had just served to keep him up where it was urgently necessary
that he should preserve his balance; but it was now exhausted; he had
quite come to the end of his resources, and at best he could move
downwards a few steps at a time. It was difficult to see what could be
done for him. There were places where we might sit down and rest, and we
should be obliged not only to stop often for two or three minutes, but
also to stay occasionally for perhaps ten minutes or a quarter of an
hour. Anything like a longer halt must be avoided if possible, as the
air was already cold, and an exhausted man would be particularly
sensitive. Probably a longer rest would not have helped him, and we
proceeded as best we could, so as to avoid delay as much as possible.
One of us, and it was usually Norton, gave Morshead the support of his
shoulder and an arm round his waist, while I went first, to pick out
exactly the most convenient line, and Somervell was our rearguard in any
steeper place. So we crawled down the mountain-side in the gathering
darkness, until as I looked back from a few yards ahead my companions
were distinguishable only as vague forms silhouetted against the snow.
There were long hours before us yet, and they would be hours of
darkness. Occasionally the flicker of lightning from distant clouds away
to the West reminded us that the present calm might sometime be
disturbed. Perhaps below on the col, or it might be sooner, the old
unfriendly wind would meet us once again. For the present it was
fortunate that the way was easy; the great thing was to keep on the
snow, and we found that the edge of rocks by which we had come up, and
where it was now so much more difficult to get along, could be avoided
almost everywhere. With the same edge of stones to guide us, we could
not miss our way, and were still stumbling on in the dark without a
lantern when we reached the North Col. But we had a lantern with us, and
a candle too, in Somervell’s rucksack, and we should now require a
light. I was reminded once again of the most merciful circumstance, for
the air was still so calm that even with matches of a Japanese brand,
continually execrated among us, we had no difficulty in lighting our
candle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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