Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Two hundred yards, or little more in a direct line, now separated us
from our tents, with the promise of safety, repose, and warmth in our
soft eiderdown bags. Looking back, I never can make out how we came to
spend so long in reaching them. We had but to go along the broken saddle
of snow and ice where our tracks lay, and then drop down to our camp on
the shelf. But the tracks were concealed, and not to be found; crevasses
lay under the snow waiting for us. With nothing to guide us, we must
proceed cautiously, and once among the confusing shapes of white walls
and terraces and monticules and corridors, it was the easiest thing in
the world to lose our way. Somervell, who had covered the ground once
each way more often than any of us, held the helm, so to speak, against
a sea of conflicting opinions. Even he, now our leader, was not always
right, and we had more than once to come back along our tracks and take
a cast in another direction. To avoid the possible trouble or disaster
of having two men at once in a crevasse, we were obliged to keep our
intervals on the ropes, so that Morshead had now to take care of
himself. Perhaps the lower altitude had already begun to tell, for he
was stronger now, and came along much better than was to be expected. At
length we reached a recognisable landmark, a cliff of ice about 15 feet
high, where we had jumped down over a crevasse on our first visit here
in order to avoid a disagreeable long step over another crevasse on an
alternative route. I was very glad we had come this way rather than the
other, for though, looking down at the dimly lit space of snow which was
to receive us, I boggled a little at the idea of this leap, the
landing-place was sure to be soft, and it would be easy not to miss it.
[Illustration:
THE FIRST CLIMBING PARTY.
]
I think each of us was just a little relieved when he found himself
safely down, and I dimly remember congratulating, not Morshead, but
Longstaff. I had already transposed the names several times, and he now
protested; but it made no difference, as I could remember no other.
“Longstaff” became an _idée fixe_, and though the entity of Morshead
remained unconfused—I did not, for instance, give him Longstaff’s
beard—he was fixedly Longstaff until the following morning.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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