Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The oxygen equipment has already been fully described by Mr. Unna in the
_Alpine Journal_, vol. xxxiv., page 235. The apparatus is, in principle,
quite simple. It consists of a frame carried on the shoulders of the
climber, at whose back, in a rack attached to the frame, are four steel
cylinders filled with oxygen compressed to 120 atmospheres. From the
cylinders the oxygen is taken by means of copper tubes over to an
instrument arm in front of the climber. This instrument arm, also
attached to the frame, carries the pressure gauges and so forth which
indicate how much oxygen the climber is left and how rapidly the
supplies are being used up. Close to the instrument arm and readily
accessible are the valves necessary for controlling the rate of flow of
oxygen from the apparatus. From the instrument arm the oxygen passes
through a flexible rubber tubing up to a mask covering the face of the
climber. The two types of mask supplied to the Expedition proved
useless, partly owing to their stifling effect upon the wearer, and
partly to the fact that saliva and moisture collected rapidly under them
and froze. Both, therefore, had to be discarded, but fortunately I was
able to make a substitute which functioned successfully. This mask
consists of a rubber tube into which is let a rubber bladder by means of
a glass T-piece, or by means of two straight pieces of glass tube let in
at opposite ends of the bladder. One end of the rubber tube is fastened
to the tube of the apparatus out of which the oxygen flows, the other
end being held in the climber’s mouth. On exhaling, the climber closes
the rubber tube by biting upon it, and the oxygen issuing from the
apparatus, instead of being wasted, is stored up in the rubber bladder.
On inhaling, the pressure of the teeth is released sufficiently to allow
the rubber tube to open, thus permitting the oxygen stored up in the
bladder to flow into the climber’s mouth, whence, mixing with the air
exhaled, it is drawn into the lungs. The chief advantages of this mask
are that, firstly, it economises oxygen to the greatest possible extent,
and secondly, the swelling and the shrinking of the bladder during each
exhalation and inhalation respectively give the climber a fair idea as
to how rapidly the oxygen is flowing from the apparatus, and thus
enables him to keep a check upon the readings of the flow-meter, or
instrument which indicates the rate of flow of gas. In actual practice
it was found that in the space of a few minutes the climber used the
mask quite automatically. The biting upon and closing the rubber tube
and subsequent opening were performed without mental effort.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account