Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
A certain amount of breathing takes place viâ the pores of the skin. As,
however, the best clothing for a climber on Mount Everest is windproof,
there is a likelihood of the air surrounding the body becoming stale, in
which case the process of skin-breathing is seriously impeded. This
difficulty could be easily surmounted by flushing out the stale air by
means of a tube inserted inside the climber’s clothes, the flushing-out
process being done at intervals by temporarily fixing this tube to the
orifice of the oxygen apparatus. It is not known definitely whether the
advantage gained would be worth the trouble, but there is every reason
for believing so. In any case it is a matter which might well be
critically tested on the next Expedition.
Cigarette-smoking proved of great value at high altitudes. Geoffrey
Bruce, Tejbir, and I, after pitching camp at 25,500 feet, settled down
inside our little tent about 2.30 in the afternoon. From then until
seven o’clock the following evening we used no oxygen at all. At first
we noticed that unless one kept one’s mind on the question of
breathing—that is, made breathing a voluntary process instead of the
involuntary process it ordinarily is—one suffered from lack of air and a
consequent feeling of suffocation—a feeling from which one recovered by
voluntarily forcing the lungs to work faster than they would of their
own accord. There is a physiological explanation for this phenomenon. At
normal altitudes human blood holds in solution a considerable quantity
of carbon dioxide, which serves to stimulate the nerve centre
controlling one’s involuntary breathing. At great altitudes, however,
where, in order to obtain a sufficiency of oxygen, the climber is forced
to breathe enormous volumes of air, much of this carbon dioxide is
washed out of the blood, and the nerve centre, no longer sufficiently
stimulated, fails to promote an adequately active involuntary breathing.
A voluntary process must be substituted, and this throws a considerable
strain upon the mind, and renders sleep impossible. On smoking
cigarettes we discovered after the first few inhalations it was no
longer necessary to concentrate on breathing, the process becoming once
more an involuntary one. Evidently some constituent of cigarette smoke
takes the place and performs the stimulating function of the carbon
dioxide normally present. The effect of a cigarette lasted for about
three hours. Clothing is a most important matter. It would be difficult
to exaggerate the intensity of the cold encountered at high altitudes on
Mount Everest. Several layers—the innermost of which should be of silk,
the others wool of moderate weight—form a much better protection against
cold than one or two heavy layers. The chief item of clothing, however,
should consist of a jumper and trousers made of windproof material. Two
of these windproof suits should be worn one above the other, and every
precaution taken to reduce the circulation of the air to the smallest
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