Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
possible extent. The hands must be protected in accordance with the same
principles, and the head. I used a R.N.A.S. pattern flying helmet and
found it most satisfactory. Helmet and snow-glasses should completely
cover the head and face, leaving no skin exposed. Boots were a source of
trouble to all, but fortunately we had so many different designs which
we could test out thoroughly that we are now able to form a very shrewd
idea as to which kind is the most suitable. Leather conducts heat too
well for reliance to be placed upon it for the preservation of warmth.
The uppers of the boots should be of felt, strengthened where necessary
to prevent stretching, by leather straps covered by duroprened canvas.
Toe and heel caps must be hard and strong, and the former especially
should be high, so that the toes are given plenty of room. The sole of
the boot should be composed of a layer of thin leather attached to a
layer of three-ply wood, hinged in two sections at the instep. A thin
layer of felt should form the inside of the sole. The boots should be
large enough to accommodate in comfort two pairs of thick socks, or,
even better still, two pairs of thin socks and one pair of thick socks.
Nails used in the boots should penetrate through the leather into the
three-ply wood, but not through the latter.
In conclusion, I should like to thank the Governing Body of the Imperial
College of Science and Technology for granting me the necessary leave to
enable me to take part in the 1922 Mount Everest Expedition, and also
for granting me facilities for carrying out a considerable number of
investigations in the laboratory of the Department of Chemical
Technology upon questions relating, amongst others, to oxygen equipment,
fuels, and vacuum flasks. These last were required in order to enable us
to keep foods liquid at heights over 23,000 feet, and the flasks
obtained on the market proved quite useless for this purpose in view of
the fact that they had not been sufficiently well evacuated.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
THE THIRD ATTEMPT
By
GEORGE LEIGH-MALLORY
------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHAPTER X
THE THIRD ATTEMPT
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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