Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The weather in all probability will have something to say to this
problem. The Expedition of 1922 was certainly not favoured by the
weather. There was no continuous spell of calm fine days, and the summer
snows began a week earlier than the most usual date. One wonders what
sort of weather is to be expected with the most favourable conditions on
Mount Everest. It is conceivable that a series of calm fine days
sometimes precede the monsoon. But when we consider the perpetual winds
of Tibet at all seasons, it seems unlikely that Mount Everest is often
immune from this abominable visitation. It is far more likely that the
calm day is a rare exception, and only to be expected when the
north-westerly current is neutralised by the monsoon from the
South-east. The ill-luck of 1922 may probably be computed as no more
than those seven days by which the monsoon preceded expectation. With so
short a time for preparations and advance, we were indeed unfortunate in
meeting an early monsoon. And it is hardly possible considerably to
extend the available time by starting earlier. There was only the barest
trickle of water at the Base Camp on May 1, 1922, and the complications
involved by the necessity of melting snow for water, both here and at
all higher stages, for any considerable time, would be a severe
handicap. But it must be remembered that the second attempt was made a
week before the monsoon broke. Time appeared short on the mountain
chiefly from the threat of bad weather and the signs showing that the
majority of days were, to say the least, extremely disagreeable for
climbing high on the mountain. If others are confronted by similar
conditions, they too will probably feel that each fine day must be
utilised and the attack must be pressed on; for the fine days past will
not come back, and ahead is the uncertain monsoon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account