Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
A final question may now be asked: What advantages will another
Expedition have which we did not have in 1922? In one small and in one
large matter the next Expedition may be better equipped. It was
disappointing, after so much time and thought had been expended upon the
problem of foot-gear, that nothing was evolved in 1922 which succeeded
in taking the place of Alpine boots of well-known patterns. The great
disadvantage of these sorts of boot is that one cannot wear crampons
with them at these high altitudes, for the strap bound tightly round the
foot will almost certainly cause frostbite; either different boots or
different spikes must be invented if the climbers are to have crampons
or their equivalent. It is essential that they should be so equipped to
avoid the labour of step-cutting, and the lack of this equipment might
well rob them of victory on the steep final slopes below the summit.
This matter of foot-gear is not so very small, after all. But a still
more important one is the oxygen apparatus. It is conceivable, and I
believe by no means unlikely, that a different type of cylinder may be
used in the future, and capable of containing more oxygen, compared with
the same weight, than those of 1922. A 50 per cent. improvement in this
direction should alter the whole problem of using oxygen. With this
advantage it might well be possible to go to the top and back with the
four cylinders which a man may be expected to carry from a height of
25,000 feet or little higher. If a second camp above the North Col
becomes unnecessary in this way, the whole effort required, and
especially the effort of transport, will be reduced to the scale of what
has already been accomplished, and can no doubt be accomplished again.
The further advantage of a future Expedition is simply that of
experience. It amounts to something, one cannot say how much. In small
ways a number of mistakes may be avoided. The provision of this and that
may be more accurately calculated according to tried values. The whole
organisation of life in high camps should be rather more efficient.
Beyond all this, the experience of 1922 should help when the moment
comes towards the making of a right plan; and a party which chooses
rightly what to do and when to do it, and can so exclude other
possibilities as to be certain that no better way could be chosen, has a
great advantage. But, when all is said as to experience and equipment,
it still remains true that success requires a quality. History repeats
itself, perhaps, but in a vague and general fashion only where mountains
are concerned. The problem of reaching the summit is every time a fresh
one. The keen eye for a fair opportunity and resource in grave
emergencies are no less necessary to the mountaineer everywhere, and not
least upon Mount Everest, than determination to carry through the high
project, the simple will to conquer in the struggle.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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