Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
I have mentioned the deleterious effect of altitude on the appetite of
some of our older members; but the same was to some extent true of us
all. I have the most vivid recollection of distaste for food during our
first few days at Camp III, and especially of the way one had almost to
push a prune down one’s throat on the way up to the North Col; but with
the majority of us this distaste for food (especially for meat and the
slowly-digested foods) diminished during our sojourn at great heights,
though our appetites never became quite normal until we reached one of
the lower camps. Those who had oxygen reported that they had large
appetites above the North Col; and there is no doubt that it is the
rarefaction of the air that causes this alteration of the appetite. One
may perhaps be justified in assuming that the secretion of gastric juice
is diminished while air that is poor in oxygen is inhaled, though it is
rather hard to understand how this is brought about.
Although acclimatisation is not entirely connected with the actual
increase in the number of blood corpuscles (as has been proved by
Barcroft in 1922), yet this is still recognised as one of the important
factors in its production. But this increase in the concentration of the
blood must be associated with a great increase in its viscosity, and
when that is combined with intense cold with its accompanying
constriction of all the smaller blood-vessels, there are present all the
conditions necessary for the production of frostbite. Therefore
acclimatisation with all its benefits probably increases the risk of
frostbite; hence one who is acclimatised must be especially careful of
feet and hands and their coverings. It is hard to put on too many
clothes at a great altitude, and very easy to put on too few.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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