Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The chief point still remaining to be mentioned concerns the
after-effects of the climbing of Everest; but these varied so much that
they give us little or no scientific information. Some of us were tired
for twenty-four hours only, some for many days; some were reported to
have enlarged hearts, while in some the heart was normal; some were
incapacitated by frostbite, though their general physical condition was
very probably good. One therefore cannot generalise about after-effects,
but as a medical man I felt strongly (by observation on myself and my
companions on the Expedition) that if one is to “live to fight another
day” and to require the minimum recuperation period after an attempt on
the mountain, it is essential during the attempt to keep oneself well
within one’s powers. One is tempted to go too hard, and to exert one’s
strength to its limits; but it is just the last few ounces of strength
which call forth the greatest effort and make the maximum demands on
one’s resources; and if these resources are to be used to their full
extent they should be continuously conserved by an avoidance of definite
hurry. Personally I am of opinion that exercise before the climbing
begins is of great value. Mallory and I were the only ones whom
Longstaff allowed to make two attempts on Everest; and we were probably
rendered fit in this way by the subsidiary expeditions we had made on
the way to Mount Everest and by our preliminary work in getting the camp
ready on the North Col. It is, however, hard to generalise on a point
like this, but each man knows the idiosyncrasies of his own
constitution, and it should be left to individuals to a great extent to
see that their condition on arrival at the foot of the mountain is the
best that is possible.
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CHAPTER XIII
COLOUR IN TIBET
In order to bring before the reader a vivid picture of Tibet, and
especially of the region around Mount Everest, a comparison between
Tibet and other better-known countries is almost inevitable. The
Expedition of 1922 took with them no official artist, or no doubt he
would have been deputed to write this section of the book; there were,
however, two people who tried to paint pictures of the country, Major
Norton and myself; and though I realise how inadequate our efforts were,
perhaps those of an official artist might have been almost as bad.
However, as one who looks on the world with an eye for its beauty,
although lacking the ability to transfer that beauty to canvas, one may
perhaps be pardoned for endeavouring to describe certain general
impressions of the scenery encountered by the Expedition.
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