Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
There are two roads that lead from Phari to Khamba Dzong, our next
objective; the short road passing over the Tang La and the Donka La, and
a long road which starts first on the road to Lhasa and turns finally
after two marches to the West. On account of the short time at our
disposal, and having regard to the fact that we had now in earnest begun
our race with the weather, we chose the shorter route. Owing to the
condition of the animals, all had agreed that the yaks could not
possibly, even by the short road, get to Khamba Dzong under six days. We
therefore divided our party again into two. The advance party, with
fifty Chumbi mules and a large collection of donkeys and particularly
active bullocks, and even some cows, were to march to Khamba Dzong in
four days, and were to be followed by 200 yaks in charge of our sardar,
Gyaljen, and two of the Gurkha non-commissioned officers, to wit, Naik
Hurké Gurung and Lance-naik Lal Sing Gurung, the other two Gurkhas being
in charge of the treasure-chest which accompanied the first party;
Lance-naik Tejbir Bura and Lance-naik Sarabjit Thapa were to march with
the first party.
The sardar Gyaljen had accompanied Colonel Howard-Bury’s party on the
first Expedition, and had, apparently, from the accounts given of him in
last year’s volume, not been a very great success. I, however, gave him
a second chance. He was a thoroughly capable man, and I had every hope,
as he knew that I had heard about him and had also seen the report that
had been made of him by Colonel Howard-Bury, that on this occasion he
would pull himself together and do well; in this we were not
disappointed. Of course, as all sophisticated men in his position are
likely to do, he was out to benefit himself; but we were able pretty
successfully to cope with this failing, and, generally speaking, his
services were of great value, especially on certain occasions.
Altogether, I think, he was a success.
Of course, we were rather well qualified from this point of view—both
Morris and Geoffrey Bruce had an excellent knowledge of Nepal and of the
Nepalese, and Nepalese is the one Eastern language which I may say that
I also have a good knowledge of. All Sherpas are tri-lingual—that is to
say, they talk their own Sherpa dialect of Tibet, Tibetan as a
mother-tongue, and nearly all of them Nepalese as well. Owing to their
being subjects of Nepal, the official language (that is, Nepalese) is
the one they are obliged to employ in dealing with the authorities. Also
nearly every one of the Tibetans we employed and who came with us from
Darjeeling spoke Nepali as their second language. In consequence of
this, nearly the whole of the work usually done by a sardar of coolies
in Darjeeling was carried out by the officers of the Expedition, who
dealt directly both with the men and with the people of the country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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