Bruce, Captain J. G., 8, 20, 33, 130, 325; in second attempt on Mount Everest, 61–62, 116–117, 236–249, 254–257; leaves Base Camp for Kharta, 65, 80, 85, 89–90, 95 Bruce, General C. G., 4–6, 8, 19–20; author of the _Narrative of the Expedition_, 17–118, 130, 143 Bullock, Mr. G., 139, 156, 162 Camp IV (on North Col.), 57; route to, from E. Rongbuk glacier, 125, 153–159, 173–175; from main Rongbuk glacier, 259 Camp V (above North Col), 288 Camps, problem of, 141, 258, 287, 291–292 Camps I, II, and III on E. Rongbuk glacier, 52, 54–56, 145–152, 231 Chang La (= North Col, _q.v._), 289, 329 Changtse, mountain, 158 Chey La, 105 Chiu, camp, 108 Cho Uyo, mountain, 72, 158, 209, 246 Chobu village, 104 Chodzong, camp, 43, 79 Chog La, 89–90 Chokarbo, camp, 89–90 Chomolhari, mountain, 28 Chomolonzo, mountain, 91 Chomolungmo (= Mount Everest), 123 Chongay, tent-mender, 21, 31, 92–94, 103 Chongay La, agent of the Shekar Dzongpen, 42, 53, 57 Chongray, Tibetan deity, 45 Chotromo, camp, 98 Chumbi valley, 27, 29–30, 38, 105, 111, 326–327 Chushar, 329 Cigarette-smoking, effects of, 266–267 Clothing, 186–188, 262, 307. _See_ Wind-proof clothing Cooks, 23, 56 Crampons. _See_ Foot-gear Crawford, Mr. C. G., 8, 20, 22, 38, 227–228; at Camp III, 168–169; in third attempt on Mount Everest, 275, 280–284; return to Darjeeling, 96–97, 114 Dalai Lama, the, 85, 118 Damtang, village, 92, 103 Darjeeling, 20, 22, 114 Dasno, Mallory’s porter, 153, 159 Donka La, 32, 111 Doya La, 66, 81–82 Dra, village, 105 Dreyer, Professor G., 253, 279 Dzakar Chu, river, 43, 81, 104 East Rongbuk glacier, 51, etc. _See_ Camps I, II, III Everest, Mount, 18, 114, 125; compared with Mont Blanc, 231–233; first attempt on, 58–60, 182–224, 253–254, 256; second attempt, 61–62, 227–250, 254–257; third attempt, 66–70, 273–286; weather conditions, 18, 170–171, 233–234, 275, 292 Farrar, Captain J. P., 8–10 Father William, 84, 104 Finch, Captain George, 6, 10, 20, 22; joins main body at Kamba Dzong, 38, 227–228; 39, 58, 59; to site of Camp I, 230–231; at Base Camp, 231 _ff._, to Camp III, 234–235; second attempt on Mount Everest, 61–62, 116–117, 237–250, 254–257; starts on third attempt, but returns, 66–67, 251–252; return to Darjeeling, 67, 252. Author of Chapters VII, VIII, and IX Food, 177–180 Foot-gear, 197, 268, 293 Fuel, 51, 52, 93 Gembu (= headman), 100 Gnatong, bungalow, 26, 27, 112, 130 Gurkhas, 5, 20 Gyachang Kang, mountain, 72, 158, 209 Gyaljen, sardar, 32–33, 63 Gyamda, pony, 29, 80, 82 Gyang’ka-nangpa, camp, 39, 133, 136–137 Gyantse, town, 29, 110 Hats, Homburg, as gifts, 42, 85 Head-gear, 263, 268 Howard-Bury, Colonel, 3, 4, 8, 17, 32, 39 Hung Zungtrak, camp, 36 Hurké Gurung, naik, 32 Jelep La, 27, 38, 112, 131, 227 Jelep valley, 29 Jykhiop, camp, 107 Kalimpong, 21, 22, 27, 227