Kama valley, 88–89, 93, 171, 331 Kanchenjunga, 112, 114 Karma Paul, interpreter, 24, 45, 47, 63, 79 Kehar Sing, cook, 80, 92 Kellas, Dr., 38 Khamba Dzong, 32, 37, 39, 109, 228 Kharta valley, 65, 83 Kharta Shika, 83, 87–89 Khartaphu, mountain, 158 Khombu La, 54 Kosi river, 97 Kyamathang, village, 97, 99–100 Kyishong, camp, 106 Laden La, Mr., 27 Lal Sing Gurung, lance-naik, 32 Leeches, 113 Lhakpa La, 158 Lhakpa Tsering, boy, 38 Lhotse, 126 Longstaff, Dr. T. G., 19, 130; first reconnaissance to site of camp III, 51–53, 64; return to Darjeeling, 65, 252. Author of Chapter XV Lumeh Camp, 104 Lungdo, village, 100 Lungtung, village, 26, 113 Macdonald, Mr. John, 29–30, 63, 72, 106, 111, 113 Makalu, mountain, 152, 171, 312 Mallory, Mr. G. L., 4, 6, 9, 19, 130; attempt on Sangkar Ri, 39, 133–137; ascends 21,000 ft. peak near Base camp, 140; to Camp I, 144; Camp II, 146; Camp III, 148; to North Col and back, 57, 152–160, 301; at Camp III, 160–168; establishes Camp IV, 169–174, 300; first attempt on Mount Everest, 56–59, 175–224; third attempt, 273–286, 308; return to Darjeeling, 96–97. Author of Chapters IV–VI, X and XI Monsoon, the, 18, 50, 58, 68, 70, 275–276, 292 Morris, Captain C. G., 8, 20, 21, 33; establishes Camp I, 52; meets party of second attempt on Everest at Camp III, 223; conducts evacuation of Camps I–III, 66–71; explores the Arun gorges, 95, 98–102 Morshead, Major, 4, 8, 20, 130; on first reconnaissance to site of Camp III, 51–52; arrives at Camp III, 168; establishes Camp IV, 169–175; to 25,000 ft. camp on first attempt on Mount Everest, 56–59, 175–203, 211–224; return to Darjeeling, 64–65, 252 Mules, 27, 31, 34 Nepal, Maharajah of, 75, 96, 103 Nepalese language, 33; sheep, 91 Ngangba La, 54 Noel, Captain J. B., 8, 20, 23, 85, 130; at Base Camp, 50, 73–74; to North Col with the party of second attempt on Everest, 237; spends three nights there, 249, 289, 329; explores the Arun gorges, 95, 98–102 (his own account); leaves the main body and goes to Gyantse, 110 North Col, 55; camp on, 57. _See_ Camp IV Norton, Major E. F., 6–7, 19, 24, 130, 131; to site of Camp I, 230–231; on first reconnaissance, 51–52; first attempt on Mount Everest, 58–59, 173–224; leaves Base camp for Kharta valley, 65, 84, 86; joins the main body, 87, 89, 95; botanical and zoological work, 321–322, 326, etc. Oxygen, 9–10, 52, 60, 69, 115–117, 231, 235–237, 243, 252–259, 263–266, 291, 294, 303–305 Pang La, 43, 334 Pangli, camp, 105 Pawhunri, mountain, 36 Phari Dzong, 30–31, 33, 111, 131 Pharmogoddra La, 108 Popti La, 92, 103 Porters, 5, 63, 94, 117, 286, etc. Pou, a cook, 151 Primus stoves, 151, 176 Pumori, mountain, 158, 247 Rapiu La, 152, 168, 171, 236 Rawlinson, Lord, 20 Richengong, Camp, 29 Rongbuk monastery, 43, 73