Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
We camped at Khamba Dzong where last year’s Expedition had camped, and
were very well received by the same Dzongpen. We were gratified to find
Dr. Kellas’ grave in good order, and we further added to it a collection
of great stones. The inscription on the grave in English and Tibetan was
clear and clean. We were delayed in Khamba Dzong for three whole days,
partly because of the difficulty in collecting animals; also two days to
allow our main convoy of 200 yaks to catch us up, and we had the good
luck to be joined by Finch and Crawford, who had pushed on at a great
pace with the oxygen apparatus. They showed evident signs of wear and
tear, being badly knocked about by the weather. The storm had caught
them on the Jelep La, and as this is more South, there had been a very
much greater fall of snow, so much so that the Chumbi Valley was inches
deep in it. They spoke very highly indeed of all their followers, cooks
and Tibetans, and especially of a capital boy, Lhakpa Tsering, who had
come along with them as their special attendant. He was quite a young
boy, but had made the march in two days with them to Tatsang, where they
stayed for the night, without showing any particular signs of fatigue,
running along beside their ponies. I make a considerable point of the
following: I think great exertions and long marches at these high
altitudes before acclimatisation is complete would have tended to
exhaust, and not to improve, the training of the party, whereas to have
a pony with one and be able to walk or ride when one felt tired or
blown, gradually allowed the body to adjust itself. At any rate, I am
perfectly certain that if every one had been obliged to walk instead of
being able to ride, even on the terribly inadequate ponies that were
supplied to them in Tibet, but which, at any rate, gave them the
much-needed rest, they would not have arrived at the Rongbuk Glacier fit
to do the work which they afterwards successfully tackled.
Our march from Khamba Dzong to Tinki and from Tinki to Shekar was
exactly by the route followed by Colonel Howard-Bury in the previous
year, and calls for no particular comment on my part, with the exception
that two small parties of Finch and Wakefield and Mallory and Somervell
made a good attempt at Gyangka-nangpa to climb a 20,000-foot peak,
Sangkar Ri, on the way. This they were not quite able to do.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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