Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
On Morris’s return to the Base Camp, the party was completed. One of the
difficulties in having so large an outfit as ours was the difficulty of
obtaining transport when necessary. Therefore, as soon as we saw signs
of the monsoon, it was necessary to make arrangements for our return, as
at least fifteen days were required to collect the still large number of
animals required for our moving. These animals have to be searched for
all down the Dzakar Chu, collected, and brought up; nor when once
collected could they be kept waiting for very long, as the supply of
fodder in the upper valley was absolutely nil—fodder did not exist. When
we sent off the previous party they travelled as lightly as possible,
but even then the small number of animals which was required for their
transport had not been obtained with any great ease. Fortunately, John
Macdonald was with us and was free, and it was owing to his help (for he
speaks Tibetan as well as Nepali, and is thoroughly accustomed to deal
with the people) that the two parties of Strutt and Norton were able to
proceed with such little delay. It had required a full fifteen days to
collect enough animals to move the main body. I had arranged for a
latitude of one or two days, which meant that they should have spare
food up to that extent, but beyond that it would be quite impossible,
naturally, to make provision. Of course, as one of our secondary objects
we had hoped, if our party had not been exhausted, to have explored the
West Rongbuk and the great glens on the Western faces of Everest. And
besides this most interesting piece of exploration, of which really not
very much more than glimpses were obtained during 1921, there is the
prodigious and fascinating group of Cho Uyo and Gyachang Kang to be
explored.
[Illustration:
WATCHING THE DANCERS, RONGBUK MONASTERY.
]
As I before pointed out, of course, not only was our major work and the
whole object of the Expedition the tackling of the great mountain, but
also it was a race against the weather, so we could let nothing
interfere with our main object. It was quite clear now, as we were
situated, that an exploration of the West Rongbuk was entirely beyond
consideration. Not only was the whole party fairly played out, but to
get up enthusiasm in a new direction after what we had gone through was
pretty nearly out of the question. Somervell, the absolutely untireable,
had very strong yearnings in that direction, but it would have been
nothing more than a scramble in the dark if he had gone. The weather was
broken and was getting worse and worse every day. Snow fell occasionally
even at our camp. Further up everything was getting smothered. Everest,
when we had glimpses of it, was a smother of snow from head to foot, and
no one who saw it in these days could ever imagine that it was a rock
peak.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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