Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
It rises near and drains the plains of Tingri and Khamba, and then
turning due South, forces its way through the main chain of the Himalaya
directly between the mountain passes of the Everest group on the one
side, and of the Kanchengjanga group on the other. Between our camp at
Kharta and the village of Kyamathang, which is on the actual Nepal
frontier, a distance of some 20 miles, the river drops a vertical height
of 4,000 feet; and therefore we were particularly interested in the
exploration of this wonderful gorge, and we wished to find out, if we
could, whether this tremendous vertical drop consisted of a series of
great rapids and waterfalls or a steady fall in the bed of the river. It
was also clear, from first glimpses that we had had of the Arun Gorge,
that lower down they must be of the greatest possible grandeur and
interest. I have before described how we looked down from our picnic
into the Arun and hoped we should be able to explore it.
When we despatched Noel and Morris it was in terribly bad weather, the
whole of the Lower Kama being a smother of mist and the jungle dripping
with moisture. We had most of us been down as far as a place called
Chotromo, where the river is crossed by the road which leads up to the
Popti La, and this is the common road down into Nepal. From there the
road is far less well known, and is not so well marked.
I will now give Noel’s description of his journey.
[Illustration:
FORDING THE BHONG CHU.
]
“On the evening of the 27th June, at the end of our first day’s march,
we pitched our camp on a little pleasant grassy shelf situated in a
small clearing in the forest near empty shepherd huts, which comprise
the camp at Chotromo. The hot, damp atmosphere of the Ka(r)ma here at
9,000 feet harbours a world of insect life. No sooner had the sun set
that evening than swarms of tiny midges emerged. They annoyed us for
most of the night, except when, in moments of exasperation, we got out
of bed and drove them away by lighting a small fire of juniper-wood at
the mouth of our tent. From Chotromo a little shepherd track leads down
the left bank of the river to Kyamathang. In actual distance Kyamathang
is not far, but the road is scarcely level for more than a few yards. It
zigzags precipitously a thousand feet up and down in order to avoid the
ravines through which the river rushes, thus trebling the marching
distance. The forest here becomes more tropical; bamboos and ferns are
thick in the undergrowth, the trees increase enormously in size, and
leeches make their appearance. The path where it descends to the river
passes through bog and marsh, where the Nepalese shepherds, who mostly
use this road, in order to reach the upper grazing grounds, have cut and
laid tree-trunks along the path. The forest here darkens owing to the
height of the trees, junipers being particularly noticeable; most of the
trees being festooned with thick grey lichen. Here and there on level
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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