Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
I entered upon this tale with the object of illustrating the course of
acclimatisation among us; but the return to Gyangkar was not for us the
end of the story. It was now clear that we could not hope to cross the
quicksands before night. However, we might hope to reach the ford by
which we must cross the river Yaru with still enough light to recognise
the spot, and thereafter we could rest in a sheltered place I knew of
until the late rising moon should show us the tracks of the main body.
We set off accordingly in high haste on the ponies we found waiting for
us. Our instruction had been that these animals should be specially
selected for their fleetness of foot—for Tibetan ponies can, some of
them, travel at a fair speed, while others no amount of flogging will
urge beyond 3 miles an hour. The beast I rode very quickly showed that
he was one of these last. I had entrusted my ice-axe to a porter who
accompanied us, and now told him to ride behind me and use it if
necessary. For 5 miles he used it with a dexterity and energy beyond
praise. Then I abandoned the pony, and, walking ahead of the party,
easily outstripped the rest encumbered with this beast. Night fell when
we were still 2 miles short of the ford. But as Somervell and I
approached the spot and wondered exactly where it might be, we perceived
lights a little way ahead on the further bank of the river, presumably
those of a Tibetan camp, and soon a figure appeared on that side. We
were hailed in Tibetan; our sirdar, coming up, spoke Tibetan in reply;
the figure waded across to us; and it was explained to me that this good
Samaritan was prepared to carry me over on his back. I readily agreed to
so generous a proposition. He was not an easy steed, but I was able to
hang on to him for a hundred yards or so until he deposited me on the
other bank, a light enough burden, apparently, to be picked up and set
down like a child. And 400 yards further we reached the lights. It was
no stranger camp; the tents were ours, and the General and the rest were
sitting in the Mess while dinner was keeping hot in the kitchen against
our return.
Ten days later we reached our Base Camp at the foot of the Rongbuk
Glacier (16,800 feet) and contemplated the prospect of rising another
12,000 feet and more to the summit of Mount Everest. At all events the
whole party had reached this point remarkably fit, and no one now showed
signs of distress from staying at this elevation. Remembering how
Bullock and I had felt after our first exertions up here last year, I
hoped to spend a few days at the Base Camp before doing very much, and
as General Bruce’s plans worked out nothing was required of me at
present. But much was asked of the reconnaissance party which started
out on May 4.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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