Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
It has been recorded in earlier chapters how in three days from the Base
Camp they reached a height of 21,500 feet on the East Rongbuk Glacier.
The cold was great and their hardships were unrelieved by the greater
comfort of established camps enjoyed by those who followed the pioneers.
From their accounts they were evidently affected a good deal by altitude
before turning back with their work accomplished, and in spite of the
cold they experienced the familiar phenomenon of lassitude so painfully
and particularly noticeable on the glaciers when the sun makes itself
felt. But on the whole they had been less affected by the want of air
than was to be expected. They had this advantage—that they proceeded
gradually; the distance to travel was long, but the ascent was never
steep, and they found the upper glacier very lightly covered with snow;
and it is heavy going and a steep ascent that most readily induce the
more distressing symptoms of mountain-sickness. However, from the point
of view of acclimatisation it was highly satisfactory that this party
should have proceeded with so little delay to reach 21,000 feet.
[Illustration:
SERAC, EAST RONGBUK GLACIER.
]
Meanwhile Somervell and I, chafing somewhat at our inactivity and with
the idea that a long day on the mountains would do us good at this
stage, on May 6 climbed a small peak above the left bank of the Rongbuk
Glacier. It was a day of small misfortunes for me. As we were walking on
the stony slopes in the early morning my triconni nails of hard steel
slipped on a granite slab and I contrived to leave there an incredible
amount of skin from the back of my right hand. And higher, as we worked
along a broken ridge, a large boulder poised in unstable equilibrium
slipped as I brushed it with my knee and fell on the big-toe joint so as
to pinion my right foot. It was an awkward moment, for the place was
steep; I just had strength to heave it over and down the mountain-side,
and luckily no bones were broken. But walking was very painful
afterwards, and perhaps this accident had something to do with the
fatigue I felt as we neared the summit. On the lower slopes I had been
going well enough and seemed fitter than Somervell; at 21,000 feet he
was apparently no more fatigued than at 18,000 or 19,000 feet, while I
could scarcely drag one leg after the other. And when we came back to
camp I was surprisingly glad to take a little whisky in my tea.
III
I have said too much already about the early stage of acclimatisation:
my excuse must be that much will depend upon this factor. The issue will
depend no less on organisation and transport; and though this subject is
General Bruce’s province, at all events so far as Camp III, I have a few
words to add to what he has written.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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