Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
On May 10 Somervell and I started from the Base Camp for Camp I. The way
already customary among the porters led us at first over the flat waste
of stones, intersected occasionally by dry stream-beds, which lies below
the black, humpy snout of the Rongbuk Glacier; we then followed the deep
trough below the glacier’s right (west) bank, an obvious line, but rough
with great boulders. It is not before reaching the head of this trough,
where one must turn up towards the East Rongbuk Glacier, that a problem
arises as to how best to proceed; here we found that an adequate path
had already been stamped on the loose moraine, and after ascending
steeply we contoured the hillside at an easy gradient—a little
forethought and energy had devised so good a way that we could walk
comfortably from one camp to the other in two hours and a half. Moreover
we were highly pleased by Camp I. The draught perpetually blowing down
the main glacier was scarcely noticed in this side-valley; the afternoon
sun was shining to cheer the stony scene, and away to the West some
noble peaks were well placed for our delight. But beyond æsthetic
satisfaction we were soon aware of a civilized habitation. We had been
in camp only a few minutes when a cook brought us tea and sweet biscuits
and demanded to know what we would like for dinner; we ordered a good
dinner and proceeded to examine our apartments. Geoffrey Bruce, we knew,
had been busy here with certain constructional works to obviate the
difficulty of carrying up heavy tents which were required in any case at
the Base Camp. We found a little house reserved for Europeans, one of
four solidly built with stones and roofed, with the outer flies of
Whymper tents. I never measured up this chamber; I suppose the floor
must have been 8 feet × 10 feet and the roof 4 feet high. It is true the
tent-poles bridging across from side to side in support of the roof were
in dangerously unstable equilibrium, and there were windy moments when
valetudinously minded persons might have pronounced it a draughty room.
But we were far from hypercritical on this first night, particularly as
no wind blew, and a wonderful and pleasant change it was, after living
in tents, to sit, eat, and sleep in a house once more.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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