The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 117, July, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and PoliticsVarious
General
The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 117, July, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and Politics
Various
American periodicals
Since tea, I have taken a stroll from the hotel in a different direction
from usual, and passed the Swan Inn, where Scott used to go daily to get
a draught of liquor when he was visiting Wordsworth, who had no wine nor
other inspiriting fluid in his house. It stands directly on the wayside,
a small, whitewashed house, with an addition in the rear that seems to
have been built since Scott's time. On the door is the painted sign of
a swan,--and the name "Scott's Swan Hotel." I walked a considerable
distance beyond it; but a shower coming up, I turned back, entered the
inn, and, following the mistress into a snug little room, was served
with a glass of bitter ale. It is a very plain and homely inn, and
certainly could not have satisfied Scott's wants, if he had required
anything very farfetched or delicate in his potations. I found two
Westmoreland peasants in the room with ale before them. One went away
almost immediately; but the other remained, and, entering into
conversation with him, he told me that he was going to New Zealand, and
expected to sail in September. I announced myself as an American, and he
said that a large party had lately gone from hereabouts to America; but
he seemed not to understand that there was any distinction between
Canada and the States. These people had gone to Quebec. He was a very
civil, well-behaved, kindly sort of person, of a simple character, which
I took to belong to the class and locality, rather than to himself
individually. I could not very well understand all that he said, owing
to his provincial dialect; and when he spoke to his own countrymen, or
to the women of the house, I really could but just catch a word here and
there. How long it takes to melt English down into a homogeneous mass!
He told me that there was a public library in Grasmere, to which he has
access in common with the other inhabitants, and a reading-room
connected with it, where he reads the "Times" in the evening. There was
no American smartness in his mind. When I left the house, it was
showering briskly; but the drops quite ceased, and the clouds began to
break away, before I reached my hotel, and I saw the new moon over my
right shoulder.
* * * * *
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