The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 117, July, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and PoliticsVarious
General
The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 20, No. 117, July, 1867: A Magazine of Literature, Science, Art, and Politics
Various
American periodicals
these ancient women lasting still, and still selling grapes in front of
the Palazzo della Ragione? What a long mortality!
The youngest of their number is a thousand years older than the palace,
which was begun in the twelfth century, and which is much the same now
as it was when first completed. I know that, if I entered it, I should
be sure of finding the great hall of the palace--the vastest hall in the
world--dim and dull and dusty and delightful, with nothing in it except
at one end Donatello's colossal marble-headed wooden horse of Troy,
stared at from the other end by the two dog-faced Egyptian women in
basalt placed there by Belzoni.
Late in the drowsy summer afternoons I should have the Court of the
University all to myself, and might study unmolested the blazons of the
noble youth who have attended the school in different centuries ever
since 1200, and have left their escutcheons on the walls to commemorate
them. At the foot of the stairway ascending to the schools from the
court is the statue of the learned lady who was once a professor in the
University, and who, if her likeness belie not her looks, must have
given a great charm to student life in other times. At present there are
no lady professors at Padua, any more than at Harvard; and during late
years the schools have suffered greatly from the interference of the
Austrian government, which frequently closed them for months, on account
of political demonstrations among the students. But now there is an end
of this and many other stupid oppressions; and the time-honored
University will doubtless regain its ancient importance. Even in 1864 it
had nearly fifteen hundred students, and one met them everywhere under
the arcades, and could not well mistake them, with that blended air of
pirate and dandy which these studious young men loved to assume. They
were to be seen a good deal on the promenades outside the walls, where
the Paduan ladies are driven in their carriages in the afternoon, and
where one sees the blood-horses and fine equipages for which Padua is
famous. There used once to be races in the Prato della Valle, after the
Italian notion of horse-races; but these are now discontinued, and there
is nothing to be found there but the statues of scholars and soldiers
and statesmen, posted in a circle around the old race-course. If you
strolled thither about dusk on such a day as this, you might see the
statues unbend a little from their stony rigidity, and in the failing
light nod to each other very pleasantly through the trees. And if you
stayed in Padua over night, what could be better to-morrow morning than
a stroll through the great Botanical Garden,--the oldest botanical
garden in the world,--the garden which first received in Europe the
strange and splendid growths of our hemisphere,--the garden where Doctor
Rappaccini doubtless found the germ of his mortal plant?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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