The ocean’s depth ranges from 600 feet or less above continental shelves
to more than 35,000 feet at the Marianas Trench. The mean depth is
12,451 feet. Sea bottom topography includes wide plains, the world’s
longest mountain range, steeply rising individual truncated peaks called
_guyots_ (pronounced gee-ohs), gentle slopes, narrow canyons, and
precipitous escarpments. Mountains higher than Everest rise from the
ocean floor and never pierce the surface.
[Illustration: _Underwater mountain traced by the Woods Hole
Oceanographic Institution echo sounder in the Caribbean area. Depth
is determined by the time it takes the sound emitted by the
instrument to go to the bottom and return to the surface._]
Ocean Movements
[Illustration: _Six ships checking the Gulf Stream’s course through
the Atlantic Ocean over a 2-week period found the variations shown
above._]
[Illustration: _The infrared film photograph shows the edge of the
Gulf Stream. The visible line between the Gulf Stream, which is on
the right, and Labrador water is made by Sargassum weed concentrated
at the interface._]
The ocean is constantly in motion—not just in the waves and tides that
characterize its surface but in great currents that swirl between
continents, moving (among other things) great quantities of heat from
one part of the world to another. Beneath these surface currents are
others, deeply hidden, that flow as often as not in an entirely
different direction from the surface course.
These enormous “rivers”—quite unconstant, sometimes shifting, often
branching and eddying in a manner that defies explanation and
prediction—occasionally create disastrous results. One example is El
Niño, the periodic catastrophe that plagues the west coast of South
America. This coast normally is caressed by the cold, rich Humboldt
Current. Usually the Humboldt hugs the shore and extends 200 to 300
miles out to sea. It is rich in life. It fosters the largest commercial
fishery in the world and is the home of one of the mightiest game fish
on record, the black marlin. The droppings of marine birds that feed
from its waters are responsible for the fertilizer (guano) exports that
undergird the Chilean, Peruvian, and Ecuadorian economies.
Every few years, however, the Humboldt disappears. It moves out from
shore or simply sinks, and a flow of warm, exhausted surface water known
as El Niño takes its place. Simultaneously, torrential rains assault the
coast. Fishes and birds die by the millions. Commercial fisheries are
closed. The beaches reek with death. El Niño is a stark demonstration of
man’s dependence on the sea and why he must learn more about it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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