—Travel, according to my experience, does not exactly correspond to the
idea one gets of it out of most books of travels. I am thinking of
travel as it was when I made the Grand Tour, especially in Italy. Memory
is a net; one finds it full of fish when he takes it from the brook; but
a dozen miles of water have run through it without sticking. I can prove
some facts about travelling by a story or two. There are certain
principles to be assumed,—such as these:—He who is carried by horses must
deal with rogues.—To-day’s dinner subtends a larger visual angle than
yesterday’s revolution. A mote in my eye is bigger to me than the
biggest of Dr. Gould’s private planets.—Every traveller is a self-taught
entomologist.—Old jokes are dynamometers of mental tension; an old joke
tells better among friends travelling than at home,—which shows that
their minds are in a state of diminished, rather than increased vitality.
There was a story about “strahps to your pahnts,” which was vastly funny
to us fellows—on the road from Milan to Venice.—_Cælum_, _non
animum_,—travellers change their guineas, but not their characters. The
bore is the same, eating dates under the cedars of Lebanon, as over a
plate of baked beans in Beacon Street.—Parties of travellers have a
morbid instinct for “establishing raws” upon each other.—A man shall sit
down with his friend at the foot of the Great Pyramid and they will take
up the question they had been talking about under “the great elm,” and
forget all about Egypt. When I was crossing the Po, we were all fighting
about the propriety of one fellow’s telling another that his argument was
_absurd_; one maintaining it to be a perfectly admissible logical term,
as proved by the phrase “reductio ad absurdum;” the rest badgering him as
a conversational bully. Mighty little we troubled ourselves for _Padus_,
the Po, “a river broader and more rapid than the Rhone,” and the times
when Hannibal led his grim Africans to its banks, and his elephants
thrust their trunks into the yellow waters over which that pendulum
ferry-boat was swinging back and forward every ten minutes!
—Here are some of those reminiscences, with morals prefixed, or annexed,
or implied.
Lively emotions very commonly do not strike us full in front, but
obliquely from the side; a scene or incident in _undress_ often affects
us more than one in full costume.
“Is this the mighty ocean?—is this all?”
says the Princess in Gebir. The rush that should have flooded my soul in
the Coliseum did not come. But walking one day in the fields about the
city, I stumbled over a fragment of broken masonry, and lo! the World’s
Mistress in her stone girdle—_alta mænia Romæ_—rose before me and
whitened my cheek with her pale shadow as never before or since.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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