The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—ChinaLeroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
History
The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—China
Leroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
China; East Asia; Eastern question (Far East); Japan; Siberia (Russia)
Very few places that I have ever visited have produced upon me a greater
impression of grandeur than the amphitheatre formed by the lofty hills
on whose last slopes stand the Tombs of the thirteen Emperors of the
Ming Dynasty. Each of these monuments is formed of an aggregation of
buildings shaded by magnificent trees, that present a striking contrast
to the usual gray barrenness of Chinese hills. The broad road which
leads to them, once paved but now in ruins, passes under a superb
triumphal arch into the silent valley, which seems deserted, although in
reality it is highly cultivated; the little villages clustering at the
foot of the heights, too, are, as a rule, difficult to make out. After
passing under numerous elegant gateways, supported by winged columns, we
at length arrive at a gigantic alley of colossal monoliths, representing
figures of animals and monsters alternately sitting and crouching, and
statues of famous legislators and warriors. Roads radiate towards each
of the Tombs, of which I only visited that of the first Ming Emperor who
reigned in Peking.
After having passed through a high wall by a porch with three badly-kept
gates, we crossed a spacious courtyard planted with trees, and presently
entered the great hall. Before the whole length of the façade extends
several flights of marble steps with exquisitely sculptured balustrades.
The hall itself is not less than 200 feet long by about 80 feet wide and
40 feet in height. It is nearly empty, and at first you can only
perceive the forty gigantic wooden columns, each formed of the trunk of
a tree, that support the roof, and which two men cannot embrace. These
columns are said to have come from the confines of Indo-China. In the
midst of them, half hidden away, is a small altar, ornamented with a few
commonplace china vases, which are crumbling to pieces and full of dust.
Beyond the altar, enclosed in a sort of tabernacle, is the tablet
inscribed with the deceased Emperor’s name in three Chinese characters.
His body lies beyond, at the end of a gallery a mile long, which
penetrates straight into the heart of the hill, but is walled up a short
distance from the entrance, which one reaches through two courtyards
separated by a portico. From the lofty tower that rises over this
entrance, the walls of which, by the way, are embellished with names
which numerous Chinese and a few Europeans have been vulgar enough to
scratch on the walls with the points of their knives, the view includes
the whole semicircle of hills, as well as all the Tombs, which, by
reason of the very simplicity of their design, create an impression of
extreme grandeur. Their erection must have cost as great an amount of
labour as that which was bestowed by the Egyptians upon the sepulchres
of their Pharaohs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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