The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—ChinaLeroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
History
The Awakening of the East: Siberia—Japan—China
Leroy-Beaulieu, Pierre
China; East Asia; Eastern question (Far East); Japan; Siberia (Russia)
After crossing the beautifully wooded valleys and the chain of hills
known as the Ural Mountains, the traveller arrives at Cheliabinsk,
situated in the Great Plain, and can scarcely believe that 1,200 miles
of railway separate him from Moscow, so striking is the resemblance
between the scenery around him and that of Central Russia, notably in
the Governments of Tula and Riazan. In the open spaces rise tufts of
delicate verdure, beyond which, here and there, appear the gray outlines
of some village, consisting of rows of wooden houses surrounded by
fields. The only striking difference between the appearance of this
country and Central Russia consists in the predominance of the birch
between the Ural and the Obi. For nearly 1,200 miles no other tree
shades the absolutely flat country. It is the same with the wild
flowers, among which I noticed the _Kaborski tchaï_, with its long pink
spiral blossoms, which recall those of the digitalis. It is not
surprising that a Russian territory bearing such a singular resemblance
to the mother country should prove attractive to Russian emigrants. The
winter here, however, is undoubtedly both longer and colder; the summer
is a little hotter, and the mosquitoes much more troublesome; but, on
the other hand, land is freer, and the peasant is no longer confined in
the very narrow space granted in the old country to his father at the
time of the emancipation of the serfs, and which, at his death, he has
been obliged to share with his brothers. If one is surprised to notice
during the first few days’ journey by the Trans-Siberian Railway so few
villages, the reason is not far to find. The line passes a little to the
south of the colonized region, and borders the insufficiently-watered
steppes where the Kirghiz graze their cattle. From time to time the
traveller perceives in the plain the circular huts and even the tents of
these nomads, and not unfrequently at the stations he may meet with a
number of them, with their beady black eyes, their yellow complexions,
and their closely-shaven heads contrasting picturesquely with the fair
locks and long yellow beards of the red-shirted Mujiks. A little to the
north, after passing the Obi, the Kirghiz disappear, although the town
of Tomsk still possesses a mosque, said to be the most northern in the
world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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