THE BALKAN TRAIL [Illustration: _From a Drawing by_ GILBERT HOLIDAY. ‘NOBODY BLUNDERED.’ [_See page 110._] THE BALKAN TRAIL BY FREDERICK MOORE _WITH 62 ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP_ LONDON SMITH, ELDER, & CO., 15 WATERLOO PLACE 1906 [All rights reserved] TO MY FRIEND I. N. F. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I. THE BULGARIAN BORDER 1 II. THE ROAD TO RILO 15 III. THE TRAIL OF THE MISSIONARIES 34 IV. SOFIA AND THE BULGARIANS 49 V. CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE TURKS 68 VI. SALONICA AND THE JEWS 82 VII. THE DYNAMITERS 105 VIII. MONASTIR AND THE GREEKS 134 IX. ACROSS COUNTRY 159 X. USKUB AND THE SERBS 183 XI. METROVITZA AND THE ALBANIANS 212 XII. THE LONG TRAIL 228 XIII. THE TRAIL OF THE INSURGENT 246 XIV. ON THE TRACK OF THE TURK 262 XV. THE LAST TRAIL 277 ILLUSTRATIONS ‘NOBODY BLUNDERED’ _Frontispiece_ _From a drawing by Gilbert Holiday_ COUNTING ANIMALS AVAILABLE FOR MILITARY SERVICE _To face p._ 6 ON A FRONTIER BRIDGE ” 10 THE AMAZON } } ” 12 THE MASCOT } THE ROAD TO RILO ” 20 A BULGARIAN BLOCKHOUSE } } ” 24 THE BRIDGE OVER THE STRUMA: TURK AND BULGAR } RILO MONASTERY: GRACE BEFORE GRUB ” 28 FATHER COOK AND THE BRIGAND ” 32 BULGARIAN PEASANTS, SAMAKOV ” 36 BULGARIAN INFANTRY ” 48 THE CATHEDRAL, SOFIA } } ” 54 THE BRITISH AGENCY, SOFIA: A DEMONSTRATION } A VIEW OF SOFIA, VITOSH IN THE BACKGROUND ” 58 ON THE MARKET PLACE, SOFIA ” 60 DOGS OCCUPY THE PAVEMENT; PEOPLE WALK IN THE STREETS } } ” 70 THE TURKISH BARBERSHOP } CONSTANTINOPLE: MOSQUE OF YÉNI-DJAMI ON THE BOSPHORUS ” 74 A HAMMAL AND A LOAD OF PETROLEUM TINS ” 78 THE WALL AND BEYOND, SALONICA ” 86 THE ANCIENT ARCH OF CONSTANTINE, SALONICA ” 90