Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Turkey -- Politics and government -- 1878-1909
But our gendarmes assured us that we should get a supper, and presently
the meal came bleating through the door. It was allowed to stop in the
café for a few minutes, where it cuddled up to the Count, while the
_khanji_ sharpened his knife. Then the poor little thing was dragged
back into the stable, and in about half an hour a smoking stew was set
before us.
This town afforded about the worst accommodation we had yet found, but
it provided a wandering minstrel. All the creature could do was laugh;
but his laugh was incessant and infectious. We gave him supper, and
he returned again in the morning for breakfast, whereafter I took the
preceding photograph of him, which by no means does justice to the
breadth of his grin. The cap which he wore was made (he told us) by an
insurgent in a band with which he had travelled as a mascot. It was an
extra large committaji cap bearing the committee’s motto, in the usual
brass design,‘Liberty or Death.’ It lacked, however, the skull and
crossbones sometimes worn.
The _khanji_ at Boborshevo apologised for the bill he presented at
our departure. He had stabled and fed nine of us, including the four
ponies, and our indebtedness came to a grand total of eleven francs!
The khan-keeper was a Bulgarian.
It is interesting to observe that a Turk swindles you to demonstrate
to himself how much more clever he is than is an ‘infidel’; a Greek
swindles you because he desires your money; while both Turk and Greek
declare the Bulgarian too stupid to cheat.
We expected to find a high road leading out of Boborshevo, but if there
was one it did not lead in our direction. The only road towards the
east was another waggon track which again crossed the Struma. By this
time we had come to feel as much at home in the water as out of it. We
had at first shown consideration for our boy by taking him across the
river on one of our horses, but we both got tired of this, and he soon
struck his own course, invariably arriving at appointed meeting places
an hour or more before us. We met him at Kotcharinova this day at noon,
resting at the village fountain and making a meal of bread and lump
sugar. He declined a piece of lamb, saying that to eat meat two days in
succession would make him ill.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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