Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Turkey -- Politics and government -- 1878-1909
Towards midnight the conversation turned to combats to come, and both
the officer and the committaji assured me there would be no lack of
blood-letting as soon as the snows melted. Ammunition was going across
the frontier nightly, and preparations for the revolution were being
prosecuted vigorously under the very noses of the Turkish authorities.
But it was necessary in some districts, where the Government officials
were keenly on the alert, to adopt curious means of getting arms
into the towns. The insurgent told this story of how a supply of
dynamite bombs was got into Monastir. A funeral parade started from an
ungarrisoned village near by, and marched into the town to the solemn
chant of a mock priest, attired in gilded vestments, and acolytes
swinging incense. Mourners, men and women, followed the corpse, weeping
copiously. The Turks did not notice that the dead man was exceptionally
heavy, and required twice the usual number of pall-bearers. The
insurgents buried their load in the Bulgarian cemetery with all due
dust to dust and ashes to ashes. The local voivodas were apprised of
the fact, and the following night a select delegation robbed the grave.
There were no refugees at Rilo on the occasion of my first visit.
Several months had elapsed since the search for arms in the Struma
and Razlog districts, and the fugitives who had come to the monastery
to escape this inquisition in Macedonia had now moved on to the towns
and villages further from the frontier. But six months later, when
I returned after the revolution in Macedonia, the place was crowded
with refugees. There were nearly two thousand quartered in the main
building and in the stables and cornbins round about, and more were
arriving daily. Some reached the monastery driving a cow or two, and
others leading ponies and donkeys heavily laden with all their poor
possessions; but many came with only what they carried on their backs.
The special burden of the little girls seemed to be their mothers’
babies, borne in bags strapped to their backs.
Some of the young mothers bore between their eyes peculiar marks which
attracted my attention. They were crosses tattooed there. They told me
that these life marks were for the purpose of preventing the Turks from
stealing them; but I am of the opinion that the sign of the Cross would
not prevent a Moslem from taking a Christian woman.
A caravan of pack-ponies arrived at Rilo every morning, bringing bread,
which was supplied to the refugees by the Bulgarian Government. Besides
this they received soup from the monastery once a day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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