Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Turkey -- Politics and government -- 1878-1909
Our box cost the sum of five francs; it was the best in the house with
the exception of the royal box. There were seats to be had for twenty
and standing room for ten centimes. The building was a rough wooden
barn, rather rickety, whitewashed inside. From the single gallery hung
hand-painted works of art only equalled by the mural decorations at
Rilo. The pictures were grotesque and ludicrous. They portrayed the
absurdities of the Turk, his peculiar way of doing things, and his
chronic inclination to rest. The band, which vied with the pictures
in keeping early arrivals in good humour until the curtain rose,
was composed of a fair young lady who beat the drum, a bald bass
violinist, a stout matron who blew the cornet, and two or three normal
musicians--all led by a youth of not more than fifteen. The work of
the band, however, was more artistic than that of the painter, which
was well for it, because the music was not included in the price of
admission. When the play began the beauty who beat the drum left her
instrument to pass a plate among the audience in the same manner that a
collection is taken in church. But this was not the only collection to
be made. Between the acts the actresses appeared by turns in the house.
After the band the leading lady had first draught on the audience. The
lady who simply walked on got the last pull--and got what she deserved.
The plays presented at the Turkish theatre are all comedies. The
language employed is Turkish; the principal characters are Turks;
the actors are Armenians. The leading man is a splendid actor. His
impersonation of a Turkish pasha, with all that functionary’s suspicion
and corruption, was done with such extravagance, and yet such delicacy,
that the Jap, the Russian, and myself, as well as Sarafoff, were highly
amused.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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