The Bible in Spain: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman, in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the PeninsulaBorrow, George
Religion
The Bible in Spain: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman, in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- History -- 19th century
than confront one angry Maragato, sluggish and stupid though he be on
other occasions.
The men scarcely ever occupy themselves in husbandry, which they abandon
to the women, who plough the flinty fields and gather in the scanty
harvests. Their husbands and sons are far differently employed: for they
are a nation of arrieros or carriers, and almost esteem it a disgrace to
follow any other profession. On every road of Spain, particularly those
north of the mountains which divide the two Castiles, may be seen gangs
of fives and sixes of these people lolling or sleeping beneath the
broiling sun, on gigantic and heavily laden mutes and mules. In a word,
almost the entire commerce of nearly one half of Spain passes through the
hands of the Maragatos, whose fidelity to their trust is such, that no
one accustomed to employ them would hesitate to confide to them the
transport of a ton of treasure from the sea of Biscay to Madrid; knowing
well that it would not be their fault were it not delivered safe and
undiminished, even of a grain, and that bold must be the thieves who
would seek to wrest it from the far feared Maragatos, who would cling to
it whilst they could stand, and would cover it with their bodies when
they fell in the act of loading or discharging their long carbines.
But they are far from being disinterested, and if they are the most
trustworthy of all the arrieros of Spain, they in general demand for the
transport of articles a sum at least double to what others of the trade
would esteem a reasonable recompense: by this means they accumulate large
sums of money, notwithstanding that they indulge themselves in far
superior fare to that which contents in general the parsimonious
Spaniard;—another argument in favour of their pure Gothic descent; for
the Maragatos, like true men of the north, delight in swilling liquors
and battening upon gross and luscious meats, which help to swell out
their tall and goodly figures. Many of them have died possessed of
considerable riches, part of which they have not unfrequently bequeathed
to the erection or embellishment of religious houses.
On the east end of the cathedral of Astorga, which towers over the lofty
and precipitous wall, a colossal figure of lead may be seen on the roof.
It is the statue of a Maragato carrier who endowed the cathedral with a
large sum. He is in his national dress, but his head is averted from the
lands of his fathers, and whilst he waves in his hand a species of flag,
he seems to be summoning his race from their unfruitful region to other
climes, where a richer field is open to their industry and enterprise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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