The Birth of the Nation, Jamestown, 1607Pryor, Sara Agnes Rice
History
The Birth of the Nation, Jamestown, 1607
Pryor, Sara Agnes Rice
Virginia -- History -- Colonial period, ca. 1600-1775
We cannot begin to describe the Elizabethan magnificence in dress. The
artificial taste for dainty and costly living was also abundantly evident
in the epicurism of the time. The court that allotted a scanty diet of
cereal, oil, and vinegar to the men it sent out to subdue a wilderness,
could partake of no simple food or drink. The cookery was complicated and
consisted mainly of "villanous compounds" of great cost. Butter, cream,
marrow, ambergris, lemons, spices, dried fruits, oranges, the scarce
sugar--all of these entered largely in the composition of dishes. We read,
among the simple dishes, of an artificial hen made of paste, sitting upon
eggs in each of which, enclosed in paste, was a fat nightingale seasoned
with ambergris, then the most costly of flavours. There were snails stewed
or fried in oil, vinegar, and spices; frogs dressed into fricassees. There
was a wonderful receipt for cooking herring. "In hell they'll roast thee
like a herring," was the warning to Tam O'Shanter, but herrings were not
roasted in King James's time, Scotchman although he was. Here is a receipt
for salted herring[6] or "herring-pie," a little bit of which might serve
as an appetizer: "Take salt herrings being watered (soaked), wash them
between your hands and you shall loose the fish from the skin; take off
the skin whole, and lay them in a dish; then have a pound of almond paste
ready; mince the herrings and stamp them with the almond paste; two milts
or roes; five or six dates, some grated manchet, sugar, sack, rose-water
and saffron; make the composition somewhat stiff and fill the skins; put
butter in the bottom of your pie, lay on the herring, and on them dates,
gooseberries, currants, barberries, and butter; close it up and bake it;
being baked, liquor it with butter, verjuice, and sugar."
There was once a gathering of marquises, lords, knights, and squires
at Newcastle to celebrate a great anniversary, and each guest was
required to bring a dish. The specimen of Sir George Goring was reckoned
a masterpiece. It consisted of four huge, brawny pigs, piping hot,
bitted and harnessed with ropes of sausages all tied to a monstrous
bag-pudding.[7] The narrator explains that "on some occasions a coarse
and clownish dish was a pleasing variety."
We can imagine George Percy, John Smith, Gosnold, Newport (all of whom
were doubtless received in court circles), dining on this costly fare, and
drinking healths on their knees when the King was toasted. So much of the
drinking was attributed to Danish influence that it was a common saying
that "The Danes had again conquered England."
Before we join our colonists in their perilous enterprise we briefly
sketch some of the peculiarities of the life whence they came. This will
help to account for some things that follow. Of the political and literary
aspects of the times, we must be allowed a short notice, in order that
the ensuing story may be better understood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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