The first cheeses of the Cheddar group were made on the farms. The work
was usually performed by women, and the process was very simple. The
methods were crude, and the cheeses were made in a more or less
haphazard way. The milk of the evening was placed in a cheese tub in the
dairy room and cooled to a temperature that would prevent souring. In
most cases the cream that had raised to the surface of the night's milk
was removed in the morning. This was considered an act of economy, for
it was thought that in the process of manufacture it would all pass off
in the whey and be lost. The morning's milk was then mixed with that of
the evening and warmed to the setting temperature by placing a portion
in a tin pail and suspending it in a kettle of hot water. When hot, it
was emptied into the tub of cold milk. By transferring back and forth,
the setting temperature was finally reached. Few of these settlers owned
thermometers. Consequently, cheese-makers were obliged to depend on the
sense of feeling to determine temperature.
One of the serious difficulties of the early manufacture was the
production of rennet of a uniform strength. After the addition of the
rennet and as soon as the coagulated milk became firm enough, it was
broken into as small pieces as could be conveniently made, a wooden
knife being used for the purpose. After standing ten minutes it was
stirred by hand, breaking the pieces finer, and the temperature was
gradually brought to 98° F., aiming as near blood heat as could be
judged by the sense of feeling. It was kept at this temperature until
the moisture was out of the curd and it would squeak between the teeth.
The whey was drawn off and the curd stirred until dry, salted and put to
press. All the curd of one day was made into a cheese. This resulted in
small uneven-sized cheese. Since such cheeses were made from the milk of
single dairies with all the surroundings clean, the flavor was usually
good but the texture was open and soft. The method of caring for the
cheese and marketing was entirely different from that practiced at the
present time. All the cheeses made during the entire season were held
until fall and marketed at one time. They were packed in casks four to
six in a package, one on top of the other. The earliest date when single
boxed cheeses were on the market was 1841.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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