The Book of Pears and Plums; With Chapters on Cherries and MulberriesBartrum, Edward
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The Book of Pears and Plums; With Chapters on Cherries and Mulberries
Bartrum, Edward
Fruit-culture; Pears; Plum
No one should plant high standards except under special circumstances;
pyramids are a part of almost every large and good fruit-garden. In
moist, strong soils they should be on the Quince Stock. In light soils
the Pear Stock alone has a chance. Some trees succeed only as bushes,
others can be trained as pyramids. The lists of the leading nurserymen
usually refer to the habits of each tree. Buy trees trained as pyramids
direct from the nursery. If you prefer maidens (trees one year old)
train as follows: In early spring, after planting, stop the tree
slightly, and encourage growth; next winter cut it down almost to the
stock. A strong shoot from the base must now be made the leader and the
central stem. Next winter cut this back to within 18 inches of the
ground. The highest shoot next season must be trained upwards by a
straight stake; the side shoots will form branches. These in September
must be brought (by stakes) into a horizontal position. The stronger
must be more depressed, the weaker may be left for another year. Bend
into position before the sap sinks. In winter reduce side shoots on
branches to two or three eyes. Cut the leading shoot 12 or 15 inches
(according to growth or soil) above the branch below it, so as to
produce fresh branches. Bend these down as before. As the tree
progresses, the leading shoot may be stopped in summer when it has grown
a foot, so as to throw out more branches; it may grow another foot
upwards by September, and also send out fresh branches. Every care
should be taken to keep an upright and straight stem. In summer pruning
check the upper branches before the lower, stopping the terminal shoots
so that they shall not spread out further than those below them. Stop
them when they have grown 8 or 10 inches, removing the top. Any shoots
from the branches (laterals) must be reduced to six or seven leaves
about mid-June (on young trees), so as to open the tree and concentrate
growth on necessary parts, and also to produce bloom-buds. These may
form near the base. In winter reduce to two or three eyes.[4] Pyramids
on the Pear Stock in strong soil reach a height of 15 to 25 feet, but
such trees are hard to manage. Weak growing sorts might be tried. The
larger trees would need annual root-pruning (half a side each year) to
secure good crops. Train pyramids from the nursery in a similar way,
keeping the upper branches in subjection to the lower, taking care to
let light into every part of the tree by summer pruning. Pyramids on the
Quince should be not less than 10 feet apart, 15 in strong soil with
strong sorts (such as Pitmaston Duchess, or Duchesse d'Angoulême); on
the Pear Stock in similar soil for strong sorts 20 feet apart. Avoid
crowding. Lift or root-prune rather than crowd. Do not plant two trees
of the same variety close together. The pollen of a different sort may
make each tree more fruitful. Have hives of bees at no great distance to
promote fertilisation.
The following are good sorts for pyramids:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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