The book of The Cheese : $b Being traits and stories of "Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese"
History
The book of The Cheese : $b Being traits and stories of "Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese"
Cheshire Cheese (Inn)
“When I was a young fellow,” he says, “I wanted to write the life
of Dryden, and in order to get materials I applied to the only two
persons then alive who had seen him; these were old Swinney and old
Cibber. Swinney’s information was no more than this, ‘That at Will’s
Coffee-house, Dryden had a particular chair for himself, which was
set by the fire in winter and then called his winter chair, and that
it was carried out for him to the balcony in summer, and then called
his summer chair.’ I went and sat in it.”
Thanks, therefore, to the fact that we have one specimen of the
Johnsonian tavern remaining practically the same as it was in the
Johnsonian days, we can still depict for ourselves, with but the
slightest effort of the imagination, what must have been the scene
at the Cheshire Cheese in the Doctor’s time. Johnson is there in his
favourite seat, mouthing and talking as who should say: “I am Sir
Oracle, and when I ope my mouth let no dog bark.” One or other of his
friends is never wanting to keep him company—Burke, or Goldsmith, or
it may be Langton or Beauclerk. But the inn is with us, though the
men of the eighteenth century are gone.
Even then the tavern as a club was beginning to fall into comparative
decay. Fashion was voting for the club proper, proprietary or
otherwise, and the habit of ceasing to live in the City carried away
the old frequenters of the Fleet Street taverns into the suburbs or
the more distant environs of London. Washington Irving gives us in
his “Sketch Book” a charming account of one of the city of London
hostelries, as it was at the beginning of the nineteenth century.
The opening of the description would serve for the Cheshire Cheese
of to-day. “This has been a temple of Mirth and Wine from time
immemorial. It has always been in the family, so that its history
is tolerably well preserved by the present landlord. It was much
frequented by the gallants and cavalieros of the reign of Elizabeth,
and was looked into now and then by the wits of Charles the Second.
The members of the club which now holds its weekly sessions there
abound in old catches, glees, and choice stories that are traditional
in the place. The life of the club, and indeed the prime wit of the
neighbourhood, is mine host himself. At the opening of every club
night he is called in to sing his ‘Confession of Faith,’ which is the
famous old drinking troll from Gammer Gurton’s ‘Needle.’” Washington
Irving gives the words of the four verses of the song with chorus,
the first of which, as a specimen of an old-time City tavern song,
may suffice to be produced here:
I cannot eate but little meat,
My stomack is not good;
But sure I think that I can drink
With him that wears a hood.
Though I go bare, take ye no care,
I nothing am acold.
I stuff my skin so full within
With jolly good ale and old.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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