The weight and power of such on-rushing masses of water are tremendous,
as appears from the effect on coasts where they strike; but this
opens up a subject which is too large for treatment here, and I must
refer readers to geological treatises, and to such special works as
Professor N. S. Shaler’s excellent “Sea and Land,” where the work of
the ocean in tearing down and building up its coasts is fully and
entertainingly explained. I shall have something more to say on
this point, also, when I come to the chapter “Dangers of the Deep,”
and speak of the terrible destruction caused by earthquakes, and in
certain other agitations of the sea not due to the wind, and often
styled “tidal waves.” There is only one kind of “tidal wave,” properly
speaking, however; and this is a theoretical rather than an actual one,
perceptible usually only in that rising and falling of the water along
coasts twice each twenty-four hours that we call the flow and ebb of
the tides; and here we see the effect rather than the thing itself.
[Illustration: LOW TIDE, ST. JOHN’S HARBOR, N. B.]
The tide has been an inevitable circumstance of the existence on the
earth of the ocean, or any other great body of water, ever since its
origin, yet it was not until Sir Isaac Newton made us comprehend
the law of gravitation that its mystery was explained. We now know
with certainty—if you want the mathematical formulæ and so forth,
consult some good modern encyclopædia under the word _tide_—that this
periodical rising and falling of the sea is due to the attraction of
the sun and moon,—to the last three times as much as to the first,
because it is so much nearer. This attraction is exerted toward the
globe as a whole; and its visible effect upon the movable water is to
lift it bodily on that side nearest the moon, and at the same time to
pull away the earth from the water on the opposite side, which amounts
to the same thing; and thus high tides are simultaneously produced
at these antipodes, which accounts for the two a day. At the same
time, however, the intermediate spaces have low tides caused by an
attraction there toward the center of the earth. “There are thus always
simultaneously and directly under the moon two high waters opposite
each other, and two low waters at equal distances between them. Owing
to the rotation of the earth, this permanent system of swells and
troughs travels from east to west over every part of the ocean and of
its coast, and explains the regular succession of rising and falling
waters, at equal intervals of time, which we call the tides.”
[Illustration: THE EARTHQUAKE WAVE PASSING OVER THE LIGHTHOUSE ON POINT
ANJER.]
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