The finishing processes of woolens, like the finishing processes of worsteds, vary with different fabrics, some fabrics being scoured and cleansed in the washers before fulling, others going to the fulling mill without cleansing. After fulling, the cloth is again washed and rinsed, and if necessary to remove any vegetable fibres it is carbonized. Napping or gigging raises the fibres to the nap desired. Gigging is done by means of a wire napping machine or teasel gig, which raises the ends of the fibres on the face of the cloth. The teasel is a vegetable product about the shape of a pine cone, and it is interesting to note that no mechanical contrivance has ever been invented to equal it for the purpose. [Illustration: SPINNING THE WOOL Copyright American Woolen Company ENGLISH CAP SPINNING] The napping which has been raised by the teasel is sheared or cut to a proper length by machine. The cloth is pressed, and, if it is desired to finish it with lustre, it is wound upon copper cylinders and steam is forced through it at a high pressure. [Illustration: Copyright American Woolen Company RING TWISTING] [Illustration: Copyright American Woolen Company BEAMING--YARN INSPECTING] [Illustration: Copyright American Woolen Company WOOLEN MULE SPINNING] [Illustration: Copyright American Woolen Company FINISHER WOOLEN CARDING] Next the cloth is dyed, if it is to be piece-dyed--that is, dyed in the piece. If the cloth is a mixture, the wool was dyed immediately after the scouring. In worsteds the dyeing is done either just after it has been subjected to the first combing processes, or the yarn is dyed in the skein or hank. [Illustration: Copyright American Woolen Co. PIECE DYEING Copyright American Woolen Co. FULLING CLOTH Copyright American Woolen Company FINISH PERCHING] [Illustration: Copyright American Woolen Company FINISHED CLOTH, READY FOR THE TAILOR] In the dry finishing the cloth is finished with various kinds of finishes desired, and it is steamed, brushed, sheared and pressed. Another examination for any imperfections or defects follows; the cloth is measured, packed and tagged and is ready for the market. The difference between worsteds and woolens is principally that in the threads or yarns from which worsteds are made the fibres of the wool lie parallel, one to another, being made from combed wool, from which the short fibres have been removed; and woolens are made from yarns in which the fibres cross and are matted and intermixed. When finished the effect of worsteds and woolens is materially different. Upon examination it will be found that the worsted thread resembles a wire in evenness, while the woolen thread is uneven and irregular.