Woolens are made from short staple wools, known as clothing wools, and in the finished woolens the fibres of the yarns cross or are mingled together. In the case of woolens, after the scouring, it is frequently necessary to remove burrs or other vegetable matter from the wool. To accomplish this the wool is dipped in a bath of chloride of aluminum or sulphuric acid solution, then the moisture is extracted and the wool is put through a drier, where the temperature must be at least 212 degrees. This heat carbonizes the foreign substance, but has little effect on the animal fibres of the wool. [Illustration: FINISHING BOX ENGLISH DRAWING Copyright American Woolen Company GILLING ENGLISH DRAWING Copyright American Woolen Company] Next, an ingenious machine called the burr picker removes the burr. Sometimes there is to be a blend of the wool with other stocks, and in that case the several different wools are mixed together. [Illustration: GILLING, FIRST OPERATION ENGLISH DRAWING Copyright American Woolen Company REDUCER ENGLISH DRAWING Copyright American Woolen Company] ~HOW WOOLEN CLOTH IS DYED~ Dyeing of woolens is done in three ways--in the wool, in the thread after it is spun, or in the piece after it is woven. If the wool is to be “dyed in the wool” it is now conveyed to the dyehouse, dyed the shade required, then returned to the mixing room. During the process of scouring, when the yolk was removed, a large part of the natural oil of the wool was also eliminated, and, in order to restore this lubricant, the wool is sprinkled with an oil emulsion, and the mixing picker thoroughly blends the wools. From here the wool goes to the cardroom, and by means of the carding machine the fibres are carded and drawn and delivered to the finisher in a broad, flat sheet. By means of the condenser it is divided into narrow bands, and the wool--free as yet from twist--comes out in soft strands. These strands or threads are called roping. [Illustration: MENDING ROOM Copyright American Woolen Company BURLING RAISING KNOTS Copyright American Woolen Company MENDING PERCHING Copyright American Woolen Company] [Illustration: DRAWING IN WARP THREADS Copyright American Woolen Co. Copyright American Woolen Co. Copyright American Woolen Co. WEAVING AND SCOURING] Now comes the mule spinning. The roping passes through rolls by which it is drawn and twisted to the size required, and wound on paper cop tubes or bobbins. Such of the yarn as is to be used for warp is then spooled from the bobbins to dresser spools. It is sized and wound upon large reels: from these transferred to the warp beam, as in the case of worsteds. The processes of drawing-in, preparation for weaving, burling and mending are practically the same as in the case of worsteds. ~HOW THE CLOTH IS MADE PERFECT~