The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning. — John Shaqi
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
No. 1 is the sandal of a Russian lady of 1768. The second that of a
female of Finland, a low, slipper-like shoe, secured by a band across
the instep, having an ornamental clasp, like a brooch, to secure it on
each side of the foot; it was probably a coarsely made piece of jewelry,
with glass or cheap stones set around it, as the people of this country
at that time were fond of such showy decorations, particularly upon
their shoes. No. 3 is a production of the same country, and is similar
to those worn by the matrons of the upper classes. No. 4 is the shoe of
a Tartarian lady of 1577. Nos. 5 and 6 are examples of the shoes of
oriental ladies, which are sometimes highly ornamented; the covering
part being wrought with gold, silver, and silk, and perhaps set with
jewels, real or imitated. The shoes of noblemen are of similar
construction. They were no doubt easy to wear.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Not so are the ladies shoes, for they only were allowed the privilege of
discomfort, fashion having in this country declared in favor of small
feet, and the prejudice of the people having gone with it, the feet of
all ladies of decent rank in society, are cramped in early life, by
being placed in so strait a confinement, that their growth is retarded,
and they are not more than three or four inches in length, from the toe
to the heel. By the smallness of the foot the rank or high-breeding of
the lady is decided on, and the utmost torment is endured by the girls
in early life, to insure themselves this distinction in rank; the lower
classes of females not being allowed to torture themselves in the same
manner. The Chinese poets frequently indulge in panegyrics on the beauty
of these crippled members of the body, and none of their heroines are
considered perfect without excessively small feet, when they are
affectionately termed by them “the little golden lilies.” It is needless
to say that the tortures of early youth are succeeded by a crippled
maturity, a Chinese lady of high birth being scarcely able to walk
without assistance. These shoes are generally made of silk and
embroidered in the most beautiful manner, with flowers and ornaments in
colored silk and threads of gold and silver. A piece of stout silk is
generally attached to the heel for the convenience of pulling up the
shoe.
The Turkish ladies of the sixteenth century, and very probably much
earlier, wore a very high shoe known in Europe by the name of a
“chopine.” This fashion spread in Europe in the early part of the
seventeenth century, and it is alluded to by Hamlet, in act ii., scene
2, when he exclaims, “Your ladyship is nearer heaven than when I saw you
last, by the altitude of a chopine,” by which it appears that something
of the kind was known in England, where it may have been introduced from
Venice, as the ladies there wore them of the most extravagant size.
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