The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
It may be said that the simplicity of this branch of the mechanic arts
does not require that degree of study and investigation which the more
abstruse and complicated sciences demand, and hence there is no
necessity for works upon the subject. This objection is only true in
part. It requires the nicest adaptation of skill to make a perfectly
fitting shoe or boot, and no man, unless he who is fully conversant with
the rules and principles which enter into the preparation of the stock,
the _correct_ measurement of the foot, the “cutting out” of the several
parts of the stock, the lasting and fitting of the shoe or boot, can be
successful in his profession. The making of an easy, elegantly fitting
boot, requires a knowledge of the anatomy of the foot, a familiar
acquaintance with the angles, lines and curves, which are involved in
the perfect adjustment of part to part, and their relative positions.
Most shoe manufacturers, and ordinary village shoemakers, learn their
trades from their fathers, and the knowledge has been handed down from
generation to generation, without change or improvement, and shoes are
made to _fit lasts_, rather than the feet which are to wear them. Hence
intelligent instinct has taken the place of intelligent knowledge, and
progressive investigation. The workman knows nothing of the anatomy of
the foot, the science of pattern cutting, and therefore works on as
though all feet were cast in one mould, with the simple difference which
the “sizes” indicate. These “sizes,” as is clearly shown in another
portion of this work, are _regularly incorrect_. Hence, in the absence
of a correct standard, the system of boot and shoe making is simply the
following of established mechanical rules, upon a false foundation.
We refer in these remarks to the manufacture of what is known as “sale
work.” There are many, very many, “custom workers,” who proceed by
correct rules, and upon scientific principles; men who understand how to
_adapt the shoe or boot to the foot_, so that when the customer first
draws the boot or shoe on, it fits naturally and easily, adapting itself
to any, and every deformity or slight irregularity which the foot may
present. We make general statements, which every intelligent shoemaker,
or large manufacturer, will at once acknowledge. The whole trouble
arises from the want of some correct standard by which to be guided in
the preparation of the stock for the workman. All this cannot be gained
but by study, patient investigation, and the _practical application_ of
scientific rules.
The French are generally acknowledged to understand the art of boot and
shoe making better than those of any other nation, and they have carried
the science to a degree of perfection not yet attained by ourselves,
except in a few comparatively isolated cases. The whole secret of their
success is their patient perseverance, and artistic skill in
_understanding the rules which are vitally essential to success_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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