The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
This method of preparing skins for tanning dispenses with the laborious
manipulations to which they are commonly subjected, and preserves their
quality, not injured as they are in the old way, by the hands of the
workmen. It also presents the additional advantage, that they do not
require the long exposure to the action of lime which is so apt to
injure their tissue.
Since I first commenced business, the gain of weight in converting hides
into leather, has been increased nearly 50 per cent. That is, from a
quarter to a third more leather can now be obtained from a given
quantity of hides, than at the time when I learned my trade at my
father’s tannery, conducted in the old fashioned way, some forty years
ago. The great improvement in weight seems to have been gained by the
judicious use of strong liquors, or “ooze,” obtained from finely ground
bark, and by skilful tanning.
The loss and wastage upon hides, from hair, flesh, &c., may be estimated
at from 12 to 15 per cent.
To green hides, particularly, nothing can be more injurious than to
suffer them to remain too long in weak ooze. On the other hand, however,
the effects of an early application of ooze, that is too strong and too
warm, to green hides, is very injurious. It contracts the surface fibres
of the skin, tanning at once the external layers so “dead,” as it is
termed, as to shut up the pores, and prevent the tannin from penetrating
the interior. In the impossibility of adapting fixed rules to the
innumerable variety of cases, nothing can be depended upon but the
judgment of the practical tanner. In softening hides, and preparing them
for the process of tanning, a great deal depends upon the judgment of
the one superintending the operation.
In “sweating,” the character of the hides, and the temperature, are
essential, but ever-varying considerations. As a general rule, however,
the milder the process for preparing the hides for the bark, the better.
Too high a temperature is particularly to be avoided. Hides that are
very stiff and hard, resisting all the ordinary modes of softening, are
assisted by a solution of ashes, potash, or even common salt will be
found beneficial; and particularly so in hot weather.
The following table may be found useful in conveying an approximation to
a definite idea of the practice in my tannery:
40° 50° 60° 70°
SOAKING. Days. Days. Days. Days.
Buenos Ayres hides 10 to 12 8 to 12 6 to 8 3 to 6.
Carthagena and Laguaira 8 to 12 7 to 9 5 to 7 2 to 3.
SWEATING.
Buenos Ayres hides 15 to 20 12 to 16 8 to 12 2 to 3.
Carthagena and Laguaira 15 to 20 10 to 15 6 to 8 2 to 3.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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